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Vq35hr: Stall On Startup.

Simink

By Simink,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

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Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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Hey guys, I've started having an intermittent recurring problem over the past 6 months. When I cold start the car in the morning, 9 times out of 10 it will struggle to get an idle and often stall out completely. Second attempt it fires up perfectly every time with a peak rev up to around 2000rpm then slowly back down to idle (as per normal).

When it first started having the issue it would spend a good 5-10sec "chugging" before finding idle, but over time it has started dying and now it's down to about 2sec before stalling.

It's just had a regular 10,000km service, and I had them replace all the spark plugs and give a full mechanical report - no Consult, they refused to touch it (Nissan service centre).

The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump dying. The car hasn't even done 80,000km yet - do the pumps in these die that quickly?

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Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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Did you start the car by just starting it right away or did you put the car into A/c mode then start? I don't have a solution, just wondering how you start it.

Straight start.

You thinking put it into A/C first, see if the pump gets charge, then start?

Worth a shot. I'll try in the morning.

colin.ssc Mentor

colin.ssc

Posted
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I had an issue from time to time where if I put it into A/c first then start i get chugging like you said and it either stalls or it just goes on unless i step on the accelerator. I have yet seen it as bad as your problem.

Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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I had an issue from time to time where if I put it into A/c first then start i get chugging like you said and it either stalls or it just goes on unless i step on the accelerator. I have yet seen it as bad as your problem.

I'll post a video in the morning. It's not as bad as it must sound to you. Turns over fine second time. It's got to either be fuel pressure in the line, pump not getting clean voltage, pump dying, or needs the intakes cleaned (which i doubt is the issue).

Reason I think it could be pump dying is cause at driveway speed it doesn't have a smooth power input. Somewhat like the pump is turning on and off randomly, or just not producing a consistent flow. Some days it's perfect, others it has minor power cuts.

Thanks for the input though. I'll put it in A/C first to see what happens regardless. Will be a good test.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
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Do you flick straight through the reds and hit the starter, or do you let the fuel pump prime, then stop before starting?

It could be as simple as waiting a second before cranking the starter.

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

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Not sure if it is relevant, but my wife's J31 maxima (VQ35DE) was starting to struggle to start a little with a cold start. would always start, but seemed to hesitate for a second or so after firing. It was mainly used around town, and we took it on a 1000km highway trip, and it has been fine since.. with a cold start, it immedeatly shoots up to about 1800rpm, then drops down, just like it used to do.

Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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Not sure if it is relevant, but my wife's J31 maxima (VQ35DE) was starting to struggle to start a little with a cold start. would always start, but seemed to hesitate for a second or so after firing. It was mainly used around town, and we took it on a 1000km highway trip, and it has been fine since.. with a cold start, it immedeatly shoots up to about 1800rpm, then drops down, just like it used to do.

This is exactly what I'm getting. Took it for a 300km cruise a few months back and it got rid of the stuttering for about 3 weeks. I only drive a short distance to work, and mostly 60kph zones. In saying that, is it possibly just the computer recalibrating incorrectly from doing short trips?

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

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There isn't really anything the computer needs to do to 're-calibrate' between short trips and long highway trips, I figured a good highway run would give things a bit of a cleanout, clean some carbon buildup of the intake valves, etc.

Might be worth cleaning the throttle-body(s) and MAF. Not sure if injector cleaners are of much use, but probably won't hurt.

Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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There isn't really anything the computer needs to do to 're-calibrate' between short trips and long highway trips, I figured a good highway run would give things a bit of a cleanout, clean some carbon buildup of the intake valves, etc.

Might be worth cleaning the throttle-body(s) and MAF. Not sure if injector cleaners are of much use, but probably won't hurt.

Throttle body and MAF are spotless. Clean them both regularly, and I don't let them build up much carbon.

I bet it's your battery.

Get it checked bro

Good call. Last service he mentioned one terminal was a bit loose and will need replacing. Battery itself was brand new July '14. Would have thought if it was the battery it'd be more than just an inconsistent fuel pump feed.

I'll put new terminals on this weekend and see how I go.

---

FYI: Started this morning with letting the pump prime in ACC first, started up perfectly. 1800rpm, then slowly dropped to idle.

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sonicii Veteran

sonicii

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FYI: Started this morning with letting the pump prime in ACC first, started up perfectly. 1800rpm, then slowly dropped to idle.

Nice.. I did try this with our J31 when it was stumbling a bit at cold start, but it didn't make any difference. So perhaps the cause is different in your case.

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted

You might have low cranking amps.

If you bought a cheap battery it might be struggling to run your car on the first start.

That might be why it started fine after your long drive.

Post up your spec on the battery

Is say this because it sounds all the same problem I have experienced before.

Simink Enthusiast

Simink

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You might have low cranking amps.

If you bought a cheap battery it might be struggling to run your car on the first start.

That might be why it started fine after your long drive.

Post up your spec on the battery

Is say this because it sounds all the same problem I have experienced before.

Started again today in ACC first, perfect start. But noticed if i gave it a rev up to about 3500rpm it would drop to about 400 and nearly stall before catching itself.

Called out RACQ just in case the battery needed replacing, he said it's a little lower than it should be and thinks it just needs a charge. Bought a charger off him, plugged it in when I got home, within 3min the fully charged light is on. I'm going to leave it for a few hours cause I'm hoping the charger is telling porkies and that it's going to be the issue fixed.

RACQ guy also said that the battery is a bit smaller than you'd expect in a car of that size, but not uncommon. It is the battery that was in the car when I bought it from the dealer. Can't get specs on it without taking it out. No visible markings or labels anywhere with it in.

If I'm still getting issues after charging the battery I might just bite the bullet and put a new battery in it and see how it goes.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Fingers crossed.

  • 2 weeks later...

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