Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Just getting a R33 Series 3 GTR imported, it's going to compliance workshop soon.

They are going to have to remove the Series 3 factory Xenons to comply it, but I want to put them back myself later.

They don't give me much info on what they are actually going to modify on the wiring harness, see my goal is to keep the car as original as possible and reversible modifications. The first person I spoke to said way too much work and you cant convert back to Factory xenons once it's done without huge work.

Second guy who I'm dealing with did not say much, no idea what they will do to the car.

So I'm wondering for anybody that has done it, what is the easiest way to comply a R33 GTR from Xenons to lights that will pass Compliance, but to be easily reversible.

I was thinking it was as simple as buying a set of Series 1 or 2 Headlights bolting and plugging them in and that's it, but from what I understand or am being told there is big work to be done and not reversible unless ofcourse not True.

Would appreciate some info.

Cheers.

Everything is reversible. The supply to the xenons come from an igniter. All they are really doing is using the supply that turns the igniter on to supply the new globes. The plugs are different so they have to be cut and joined.

Easiest is just to swap the headlights over.

Recommend that when they cut the looms for you they rejoin it with a connector rather than soldering the wires so you can just change the lights back over, put a matching connector on the Xenons then all done.

MAKE SURE THEY GIVE YOU ALL THE PARTS BACK (including looms and plugs)!!! I'm sure they'd love to flog off the Xenons on you....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...