Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even so, that's no reason not to balance as far as I can see.

Start with unbalanced wheels and you might get one that's 130g out like mine. That would definitely be noticeable on the front of a car.

If you balance it with 130g of weight, when it moves it might go out of balance a bit. It may or may not be noticeable, but it's definitely not going to be as bad as 130g out of whack.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Even so, that's no reason not to balance as far as I can see.

Start with unbalanced wheels and you might get one that's 130g out like mine. That would definitely be noticeable on the front of a car.

If you balance it with 130g of weight, when it moves it might go out of balance a bit. It may or may not be noticeable, but it's definitely not going to be as bad as 130g out of whack.

I definately hear your side of the discussion mate.

I've just never had the need to.

I dunno, maybe just a long run of luck with the Yoki and Dunlop semis that I/we have used? Remember I did say that the more road biased Kuhmos I've used definately needed balancing.

Edited by Marlin
  • 4 weeks later...

bit of a strange result from Lakeside yesterday. Powerhouse 120Y with old school SOHC L20B from an 83 Bluebird with a carby turbo setup running 7psi, so it's no powerhouse. Has S13 front discs (and lovely stock 120Y rear drums lol) and definitely brakes alot harder than it accelerates!

I marked the tyres to see what would happen and the only tyre that moved at all was the left rear. The fronts, which I figured would be most likely to move didn't budge one iota. Just the left rear, and it moved quite a bit. And it has bugger all power!

Tyres were just fitted the day before. Used lube but a very small amount and only on the base of the outer bead

post-15659-0-42582200-1429750223_thumb.jpg

Edited by hrd-hr30

Ron Tauranac was big on dynamic and static balancing - and fastidious on runout to avoid exciting the tyres in his formula days. All the manufacturer's dealers trackside support balances as part of the service, so might as go with what they do.

In the old motorcycle days and particularly mud races > very low pressures, pk screws were often run into the bead through the rim......which would make a nice industrial look on a car!

  • 2 weeks later...

Beware of using stick on weights on the track. In my experience the wheel gets so hot the glue melts and the weights fall off in the pits. Although that was on a 400kw car on stock brakes at QR....

I put that metallic air con duct tape over them and now they stay where they should. Maybe my tyre place uses cheap shitty weights.

Edited by burn4005

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...