Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a bit of a weird problem, at first i thought it was coilpacks going on me due to misfire but it seems to be flat spot rather than misfire as i checked coilpacks (splitfires) and changes to new bcpr8e plugs

randomly when i give it, it would hit 9/10psi and in next gear it would only hit 5 or so psi.

using a turbosmart bleed valve with factory turbo.

can anyone suggest what may be the issue? i've been away from turbo cars for too long so i've checked the most basic things but then its beyond knowledge to further diagnose.

photo below of how the boost tee is setup, is this correct? it came with the car this way, i've only turned the boost turn as it was running 15psi before.

i've read the DIY thread but it seems the guys are getting the pressure source from the cooler pipe after the throttle body with the factory piping, mine doesn't have that

Note: the other line (that doesn't go to wastegate) is connected to the pressure source from the plenum, not throttle body. bottom hose of factory solonoid has been removed,

its probably something simple/silly that i just can't see

35ar5eh.png

2wqc0vd.png

Bleed valve could have AIDS. Inconsistent boost is one of their trademarks anyway, but it shouldn't be that bad. Would tend to suggest that it's got something in it (a flake of paint or rubber or something) that is part of your boost control now, and sometimes opens up the flow path enough to stop working as a boost raiser.

OK, for some reason half your initial post wasn't there when I first answered, and there's no sign that you edited it either. Weird. Anyway, having now seen more text and your photos (not that the photos are that helpful, but they do raise some questions)...I think you might have a problem because of the way it is set up.

The boost source for the actuator itself, which in this case is the only boost source connected to your boost controller*, MUST come from the turbo outlet. Either right on the compressor housing (like it is on R32s) or off the hot side intercooler pipe, as close as possible to the turbo outlet itself (like it is on later Skylines). Sure, it can actually come from anywhere upstream of the throttlebody, but let's ignore that and agree that the turbo outlet is the correct place.

IF the boost source for your bleeder is taken from the plenum, you can get really weird results. This is because the plenum's pressure is more or less controlled by your right foot. If that signal is then being fed to the boost controller and then the wastegate, then the wastegate will do lots of opening and closing that it doesn't necessarily need to.

In your photo, those hard lines that run along next to the crossover pipe are not intended to be used for supplying boost signals to anything. They are originally for the charcoal canister. Don't use them for boost control. Especially don't use them for a bleeder.

*You may hear of people correctly taking a boost signal for a boost controller from the plenum. This is necessary for an electronic boost controller that measures the plenum pressure to display on the front panel. It's not directly used for control in most such EBCs. it's really just for information and for setting up the controller. The actual boost signal that is fed to the wastegate is STILL taken from the compressor outlet on EBCs, just like a bleeder.

So I replaced the turbosmart bleeder with a turbo xs one, 7psi sweet, 9psi sweet. Will try 10psi like how turbosmart was and go from there.

So far so good. Same issue as this chap on r31 forums

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/?topic=31879.0

The turbosmart T's have a smaller hole than most others, for the VQ25 I prefer the Turbosmart, but many have had issues using them on RB's.

The best option is a stiffer spring in the actuator, as close to your desired boost as possible, then bump it up a little from there if required.

i am writing off the turbosmart bleeder as crap, no issues with the turboXS.

I even tried with my mates spare turbosmart bleeder with exact same issues.

However i will tap a nipple into the cold pipe as that is best place to get the pressure source from.

7psi never felt so fun. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...