Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to do this all morning with no luck. I have read how to enter diag. mode but my ecu does not have the selector screw, and also does not have the diag connector. Therefore i cannot enter diag mode.

I dont have any LEDs on the ecu either so i guess i go by the engine check light.

I have a 95mdl GTST, anyone else have this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928326
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928600
Share on other sites

under the dash on the drivers side there is a connector with 14 pin holes (2 rows of 7 pin holes) in it....looking at the front of the connector with the chamfered end facing the left you need to switch the ignition on and touch the 6th and the 7th wires on the top row together for a second with a paperclip,the vehicle will enter diagnostic mode....

Thats the problem, there is no connector. Can anyone post a pic of where theirs is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928769
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

Yeah i took the ecu right out and there were 2 holes, possibly where the LEDs go on the other models. Mine just had a blanking sticker over the holes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928774
Share on other sites

Where are you, i can get hold of a carmen scan tool, does all imports to current models and also displays active data.

Does the scan tool plug into the wiring harness or ecu or both? I would be interested in been shown what it does.

I am in quakers hill, about 25 mins from penrith

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928777
Share on other sites

sorry to hijack

but i wanted to get my ecu out to see if it is a stock one or not, cause it doesnt cut out at 180

can anyone help?

ive tried to get the kick panel out but after i take off two screws it is still connected by something else behind it

Mine only had the 1 screw closest to the front near the firewall but has 2 clips that need a good tug to break free. get a commone screwdriver and wedge it between the panel at the back of it, near the door seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928779
Share on other sites

i had to lift of the plastic sill (with skyline embossed) then unscrew that plastic nut near the firewall

then i unscrewed one of the dash compartment screws so that i could get it out a bit easier

once i done that it still has a clip of some sort that needs to be undone or something, im guessing that is what needs a good tug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-928786
Share on other sites

Jason, they ECU has 3 bolts holding it in, one on firewall and two on other end!

Damo, mine has a clear platic sticker with Jap writing over the screw.. it's within the hole and needs a small flat head screw driver! if it has no LED's then just turn clockwise all the way the turn it back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-929282
Share on other sites

mine didn't have the LED's but it did have the screw (94 model) where are you looking at the ecu? have you pulled it right out?

on this note i thought it good to mention that when i did mine it came up all good code 55.. but this happened even when i disconnected my injectors, CAS,AFM and water temp sensor.. so i dunno how helpful it is!!

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45503-ecu-diagnostics/#findComment-930091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...