Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

I've been having issues with my R32 RB20DET idling high at about 1100 - 1500.

Car runs fine just idles high. I have done some research and noticed this is a common problem and is usually fixed by cleaning the aac or replacing it.

I have changed the aac twice with both times cleaning them. No fix.

I have tried fiddling with the idle screw. No fix.

I have checked for air leaks. No finds.

I have changed the cold air regulator. No fix.

Note: When idling if I disconnect the aac plug the car just dies.

Any help would be appreciated.

ECU temp sensor stuffed? How does the car run, is it running rich?

TPS set correctly (0.44v at closed throttle)?

Which AAC plug are you talking about, the plug going into the valve should not make the engine stall. On a 25de to set idle speed, I have to disconnect the brown (valve) plug.

A small leak is all it takes...

ECU temp sensor stuffed? How does the car run, is it running rich?

TPS set correctly (0.44v at closed throttle)?

Which AAC plug are you talking about, the plug going into the valve should not make the engine stall. On a 25de to set idle speed, I have to disconnect the brown (valve) plug.

A small leak is all it takes...

Now you mention it, it's running really rich. Car runs good but rich. How does the ecu temp sensor affect that? And where is it?

Tps is set correc.

when I disconnect the brown plug on the aac it dies.

The TPS has 2 components - a SENSOR and a SWITCH. The switch tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and it is for situations like when the throttle closes during (manual) gear changes.

If the switch is not set correctly, then it can cause the ECU to maintain a high idle speed because it thinks the throttle is open.

Resistance between pins 1 & 2 on the TPS should be 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

  • 2 weeks later...

This might sound like common sense, but have you tried moving the tps? how you tilt it a bit and notice your rev's change? i had the same problem with mine for a while and i just kept tilting the tps and playing with that little screw valve on top of it and it eventually got it to sit on 900

Edited by IM-32-FK

The TPS has 2 components - a SENSOR and a SWITCH. The switch tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and it is for situations like when the throttle closes during (manual) gear changes.

If the switch is not set correctly, then it can cause the ECU to maintain a high idle speed because it thinks the throttle is open.

Resistance between pins 1 & 2 on the TPS should be 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

Mostly correct but it wont show 0 ohms at closed throttle. Probably be 12 ohms or so. Sensors usually work between .5v and 4.5v and anything outside that is out of range. This is how computers work out something is wrong with the sensor. 0 ohms is considered to low resistance and will log something like sensor voltage high etc

Not trying to be critical of your post. Just adding something

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...