Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there people, i am just needing help on installing aftermarket intercooler and the pressure lines on a 93 r33.

I have have already mounted and secured the intercooler, but i had to cut the whole down under the radiator over flow box to let the new intercooler piping in witch now runs just above the radiator fan and into the throttle intake, but the new piping for the intercooler has no pressure nipple before the throttle body witch is normally connected to the turbos waste gate and to the boost solenoid with a brass tee in the middle. there is now only one pressure niple thats on the airflow intake pipe (witch is just before the dump plumb back pipe that has the blocked off pipe for HKS BOV). Do i need to get a nipple weilded before the throttle intake on the intercooler pipe or can i use the pressure hose from the air flow pipe to go to the waste gate and solenoid and block the bottom of the solenoid up to keep ecu happy?

I will post pics asap, any help would be very much appreciate

The intake pipe is not under pressure so not a boost source. You can drill and tap the turbo compressor or fit a nipple to the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. The bleed from the solenoid should not be blocked off but can still run to the nipple in the bov return pipe if that is still connected ...and put the stock bov back if you have a stock ecu.

I dont think it has stock ecu, when i bought the car, it had the HKS bov, turbo timer, boost controll unit and a big from mount intercool that followed the stock piping. I got defected and had to go through regency so thats when i put stock plumb back bov, remove turbo timer and put a stock intercooler cause the wanker who had it before me just cut the whole front bar off to mount the intercooler and i had to change exaust and ride hight.. but that was a couple of years ago im now wanting to put some mods back on. I had to remove entire dash and trim because my heater core blew.

The short version of what Bob wrote is....

The boost control signal must be obtained from as close to the turbo outlet as possible.

The longer version of that is....

On R32s and a number of other cars there was a little brass elbow screwed into a spot on the compressor cover, right on the front. The spot to do that is still on the comp covers of R33s, it's just not drilled and tapped. On R33s the factory put the connection onto the turbo outlet pipe on the way to the intercooler. Either of these options are acceptable, but removing the pipe to drill and weld on a tapping point is a lot easier than the compressor.

My own input is;

1) How can you not know what ECU it has in it?

2) If it went to Regency, there is a better than even chance that they had a look because you have to have stock management to pass roadworthy there.

3) The mods you listed that were on the car are not severe enough to warrant a different ECU being installed, unless the boost was wound above 11 psi.

I have had the car for over 6 years now, i bought it when i was young and a hormonal teenager, i had 10k in my hand i just bought it and ill admit i knew nothing about cars except it had only done 72,000km and had all the papers work with all service history and only had 1 owner before me, but then i bloody through it all out one day cleaning the car out on accident. So i cant find nothing about it except cloudy memories of what he did and wat was there when i bought it.. but as for the regency i lived out country so i only had to take it to a country regency place and he really only drilled me for the front bar missing because thats were the big intercooler was fitted. So i just took the front bar off an old ford and weilded it on and it passed

You almost certainly have a stock ecu. Replace the stock bov (the HKS won't give you any more power) and sell the HKS Bov and the turbo timer (not needed). If you can figure out how to get the boost controller working and set it to 10 -11 psi that will be the optimum for now and you can have a read around this forum on how to get more power if you want (the secret is pretty simple: $$$$$$$$$$$$$$). Don't buy any more parts until you have got a handle on what really is necessary and what is not.

Yeah i was under the asumption that it is stock ecu, but the hks bov definitly increased the power and made it feel and sound cleaner.. not that i dont beleive you, the old plumb back coulda just been shit, ill get that nipple weilded on the intercooler pipe before the throttle intake and buy a new boost controller but i ditched the turbo timer ages ago. I just found the water feed pipe on the turbo had a litte cerosion and was leaking so im replacing them all with steel braided lines. Any suggestions on a boost controll unit? The one i gad before was a blue turbo smart tee.

thanks for the help so far guys. Appreciate it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...