Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got a VG30 turbo for sale if your interested!! Ball bearing etc etc, basically same turbo as u have now, just slightly bigger compressor wheel so i'm lead to beleive!!! Bolts straight up though and i agree with everyone else get a BOV, even if its just a stocker one thats fed back!

I've got a VG30 turbo for sale if your interested!! Ball bearing etc etc, basically same turbo as u have now, just slightly bigger compressor wheel so i'm lead to beleive!!! Bolts straight up though and i agree with everyone else get a BOV, even if its just a stocker one thats fed back!

The VG30DET turbo's from the Leopard or similiar have a larger exhaust a/r BUT have a slightly smaller compressor wheel than the RB25 terbs.

They are ball bearing and have a ceramic exhaust wheel.

They are worth around $400.

There is an older VG30DET turbo that is non-BB and has steel wheels.

They are slightly cheaper again.

You may be better off hunting for a second hand T3/4 from a jap wrecker. I've seen them for around 1k. I've seen RB25 turbo's from jap wreckers from $600-$800.

They can be found for $500 or so from those RB25 owners upgrading their turbo's. :)

The VG30DET turbo's from the Leopard or similiar have a larger exhaust a/r BUT have a slightly smaller compressor wheel than the RB25 terbs.

They are ball bearing and have a ceramic exhaust wheel.

 

They are worth around $400.

 

There is an older VG30DET turbo that is non-BB and has steel wheels.

They are slightly cheaper again.

 

You may be better off hunting for a second hand T3/4 from a jap wrecker. I've seen them for around 1k. I've seen RB25 turbo's from jap wreckers from $600-$800.

 

They can be found for $500 or so from those RB25 owners upgrading their turbo's. :)

Yep well i have the ball bearing VG30 one...Im looking to get around $300 for it, i bought it for my FJ20, but i've bought a manifold that i was told the turbo would fit onto and it didn't :) So i had to buy the turbo as well not that thats a big issue hehe :)

So which one do you have the BB or the non-BB?

I'm going to be running the stocker turbo on the RB30det for a little while.

I may grab the sucker if the other bloke doesn't and see how it goes on the 3ltr.

I've had one on the 2ltr and it was crap, 12psi by 4200rpm :)

an also yeah i will get a BOV.....probly HKS SSQV...so if ne1 has got 1 of them 2 suit R33 already..ie: cbf gettin adaptor made or buying 1 seperate...jus want 2 get it an bolt it on

also when i get a replacement turbo...does ne1 know wat i will have 2 do besides bolt it on...like will i need 2 strip the motor down an clean it all up???? thanx ppls help appreciated

So which one do you have the BB or the non-BB?

 

I'm going to be running the stocker turbo on the RB30det for a little while.

 

I may grab the sucker if the other bloke doesn't and see how it goes on the 3ltr.

 

I've had one on the 2ltr and it was crap, 12psi by 4200rpm :)

Pm has been sent :mad:

my bro's friend talked 2 me on the fone an asked me 4 million q's an reakond it was a blown turbo seal..

Well that doesn't sound like the most reputable source now... does it?

Perhaps before spending your cash on a new turbo, you should get the problem professionally diagnosed?

I think you'll find your answer lies in the 3rd post in this thread. Everything points to a cracked ringland and a whole heap of blow-by. Take Buster's advice and get a leakdown test. It's cheap, and I think it'll save you about $300 or however much you're planning on buying a VG30 turbo for :)

k will chek out man,

thanx im alwayz after a second opinion....will try 2 get 1 done 2morrow......mate i have no idea wats rong with it..thats y came on here 4 sum advice.....so thank u every1..will let all know wat the prob is 2morrow if i can get cheked

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...