Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the spec S is the basic version

Spec R has

body kit - side skirt, rear wing

sunroof

6 CD stacker

GT version can come which either spec S / R, but only limit to late 2002 model

which has

leather front seat

leather steering wheel, gear knob

sport pedal

chrome wheel

a few chrome interior

and big rear wing

the spec S is the basic version

Spec R has

body kit - side skirt, rear wing

sunroof

6 CD stacker

GT version can come which either spec S / R, but only limit to late 2002 model

which has

leather front seat

leather steering wheel, gear knob

sport pedal

chrome wheel

a few chrome interior

and big rear wing

so in other words... if i was going to 'fully' do up a S15 im wasting my money if i buy a Spec R OR GT because that stuff is going to get changed anyway... right?

yup. but i found a lot of people "think" of fully done up their car, but can't finish at the end.

with a car like this u can't resist spend money on performance side

True True.... but i aint that hard (money wise) to change the ie:

leather front seat

leather steering wheel, gear knob

sport pedal

chrome wheel

a few chrome interior

and big rear wing

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...

For the record

I bought an S15 SpecS GT in 2002 (2001?? the last few months of supply brought out the GT anyway.) Previously I had looked at all the brochures etc, including the details for the GT when it was available.

For australian deliveries:

As mentioned above, ignoring the GT, the Spec R was identical to the Spec S, excepting it had the sunroof, side skirts, small rear wing and six-stacker. I have a nagging feeling there was one more option, but I'd have to check. You could option up the Spec S to add the extras, not including the sunroof of course. You could not get a Spec R without the extras - something you might have wanted if you like sunroofs but wanted to add your own bodykit or audio.

Manuals all have the 6 speed with the helical diff. Auto's all have the 4 speed box with a non-helical diff. Not sure if it's viscous, plate or whatever, since I wasn't interested in the auto.

For the GT's, they added leather to the front seats, door panels, gear knob and steering wheel, alloy-look pedals (but just an overlay, not real alloy pedals), slightly shinier rims but with identical size and styling, the larger 'Aero' rear wing, and of course the little GT badges under the front/side indicators.

I specced up my Spec S GT only with the side skirts, but the 6-stacker was still an option too.

No aussie car had a rear wiper, that was probably deleted to save a bit of cost. So I reckon the rear wiper is probably a reliable indicator of a jap import; trust that more than any badgework such as the Z-shaped symbol (in place of the nissan circle) or Silvia badging in place of the 200SX badge. The aussie models still had the word Silvia in a few places: above the glove box, on the door steps (visible when you open the door), and in the main headlight unit, so that means nothing about JDM vs. ADM

The aussie cars had the same engine as the S14, with the variable cam black top putting out 147kW, instead of the uprated donk of the JDM S15. The jap releases got a rollerbearing '28 turbo, changed wastegate and dump pipes, and probably a few other fiddles, resulting in around 187 kW power (around 180, i forget the exact number).

I know less about the jap-specs, but I understand that the Aero model (distinguished by the large wing) could even be optioned up with the HICAS 4-wheel steer system that nissan has put in other vehicles such as the bluebird and of course the GT-R. I'd be interested to feel that in action, since the stock Aussie car has the traditional understeer-in-on-power, oversteer-out-on-power of a spirited RWD. The nissan 4WS is supposed to encourage oversteer on corner entry and counter the oversteer on corner exit, and that would be just what the doctor ordered. Downside would be the effect of the extra weight.

No aussie delivery had the 4WS, but they had the same rear sub-frame and large HICAS-ready

bushes, consequently it's a bit cranky when you're on the edge of traction; when the bushes load up you take a certain stance with the steering angle, but if you lose traction (like on a little bump on a typical road) the bushes unload, the angle goes for a wander and you have to catch it; when you catch it you have to adjust again to the loaded state. Makes for a fair whack of sawing on a long fast corner, and you have to be comfortable you know how to avoid bumming out backwards or plowing off the road.

Damn this is getting off-topic. I'll stop now.

  • 2 weeks later...

please go on ( dont! stop! --- oooh dont, stop! dont stop !! )

I am thinking of getting an s15 silvia Soon ish - reason being I dont think I want something as chunky as an r34 , sunroof meh.. nice to have - but the only reason I was going for the spec R is the helical LSD_ but you have just advised me in a very convincing post that both the spec R and the Spec S have this - so I would rather get a tidier spec S and spend a bit less and kit it up myself if I wanted rather than makde the uneductated decision to buy the spec R in the false beleif its the only one with the Helical LSD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...