Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys sure this gets asked all the time, but my much loved 1996 r33 gtst after nearly 250'000 kms (imported at 77'000) and 9 years of ownership has finaly said no more!

Developed a bottom end knock about a month ago, limped it to and from work as I had no other option!

removed and striped down my motor, found a near dead clutch, swolen and hard coolant lines, rear/front mains starting to weap,

Improved 2 piece turbo side engine mount :rolleyes: lol,

And then i got to the striping, Piston 5 big end bearing destroyed, metal all through the motor, bits stuck on other

bearings, bits in the oil pump, the oil pumps drive collar worn, as the same as the oil pump.

Oh and a cracked exhaust housing of my OP6 highflow.

The good, piston rings and bores are great for their age, valve train and head is mint.

So whats next? should i go with new seals, bearings, oil pump, piston rings, repair the crank oil pump drive? and obviousaly the external broken parts and be done with it?

Or should i source a second hand much lower km r33 rb25det?

or r34 rb25det neo and do a conversion? if so should i use a full loom and r34ecu? or bits and pieces of r33 and r34 electrics?

Or the most expensive option, get my bottom end built and forged?

Just after some advice here as im not exactly sure what path to follow, keeping in mind i want to keep this build as cheap as possible,

I was very happy with the responsive 221rwkw and 380nm it had for a solid 3 years before the bearing let go

Thanks for any advice given!

Cheers, Rob D.

power does not concern me, but to have my 33 reliable for another 5 years or so would be sweet, with the neo, did you do a whole conversion with ecu and loom or a long motor swap out with 33 electrics?

Not worth mucking around to put the neo in if you don't plan on wringing its neck to be honest. Easiest/cheapest option is buying another standard RB25 bare engine and putting all your bolt on on it and putting it back in the car. You can make some money back by selling your good condition head.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...