Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...

I have a horrid grinding noise front right hand side ... and when I brake hard I get a clunk from the same area ... could not find shaun hayes on facebook (facepalms!) assuming a replacement shaft is the easiest way to go... Any ideas people?

Part nos for USA ebay etc. Any help greatly appreciated, Leigh

Edited by leigh308

I have a horrid grinding noise front right hand side ... and when I brake hard I get a clunk from the same area ... could not find shaun hayes on facebook (facepalms!) assuming a replacement shaft is the easiest way to go... Any ideas people?

Part nos for USA ebay etc. Any help greatly appreciated, Leigh

It really depends what is causing the noise. You might just be throwing money away.

First thing to do is get under it and see if you have any damaged CV joints. Also jack it up and test your wheel bearing. Both are a cheaper option then just swapping a drive shaft that most likely hasn't failed

It will be the front wheel bearing, and the clunk will be the compression bushes most likely. Both very common issues at this age. Nearly every M35 I see needs poly compression bushes and rear diff bush replacement .

  • Like 1

It will be the front wheel bearing, and the clunk will be the compression bushes most likely. Both very common issues at this age. Nearly every M35 I see needs poly compression bushes and rear diff bush replacement .

How much are the compression bushes scotty? I am pretty sure mine need doing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...