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right perchased my stagea 2 weeks ago converted to manual last week upon taking it out on a test drive ran like crap idle wasbad from when i got it sometimes hunts or dies when coming to a stop i realize that that could be aac but i thought i had better check whats going on so installed wide band calibrated it at idle its at 17 then go for a gentle short drive stays about 17 not going into boost because of this.... plus no power really at all...

when driving back when it was auto noticed a strange flatspot where you would let of a tad then go back on it would jerk

checked for dry solder in the maf (pink e60) nothing completely fine no boost leaks before the turbo has a hybrid turbo good for around 550bhp 550 side feed injectors 1.6mm hks head gasket mines ecu. also fitted nkg spark plugs at standard gap i know this can be a problem on some turbo applications but surely not going to cause lean conditions ?

im a novice with Nissans any help would be fantastic thanks

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You can't check for dry solder joints without a microscope, did you simply resolder the pins?

Sounds like you may need a tune, the Mines could be setup for any mods...

not soldered yet but will do. also yes i know thinking of going fully aftermarket but if i do will i run into complications with attesa system ?

Edited by centoproject

No, why would you? There are literally hundreds of tuned Stagea's getting about, why would you think they are all in RWD?

I think you should do some in depth reading, search for similar issues, speak to a few tuners locally and come to your own conclusions as to what will work best. Now you have gone manual perhaps a Standalone ecu is your best bet, but you have so many options with the RB25

No, why would you? There are literally hundreds of tuned Stagea's getting about, why would you think they are all in RWD?

I think you should do some in depth reading, search for similar issues, speak to a few tuners locally and come to your own conclusions as to what will work best. Now you have gone manual perhaps a Standalone ecu is your best bet, but you have so many options with the RB25

oh i see well i have done quite a lot of research but they all could be the problem so i will go at one at a time my main question was what are the main components that fail as a hole as apposed to someones idle being iffy mine seams to have quite a few issues ?

Because your ECU has someone else's tune on it no doubt. The more you mod it, the worse it will get.

hmm the ecu was installed by a tuner over here in England along with a load of other stuff (supporting mods) im trying to track down the original uk owner for more info but he spent a hell of a lot on this paperwork says that it had nistune installed but had a look yesterday and mines ecu with the gold plate

also whats the best ecu that can fit in the stagea without cutting looms ect plug and play i know a lot wont fit only mines and nistune

Most ecu will need a little bit of rewiring but best one to get in the UK for a manual Stagea is a link G4. You can also get rid of the maf while your at it. Have a G4 myself and can't fault it.

I'm sure once you have an ecu with a proper tune you will have no more problems!

The attesa connects to the ECU via 3 wires:

ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description

Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal

Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS

Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

Thankfully the unit can be used quite independently. If you feed it a pull-to-ground tach signal, it should function without throwing an error code and turning off the 4WD.

If you are delving into different ECUs, the voltage drop associated with sensors like the TPS will influence what the 4WD thinks your actual throttle amount is. If you have some skill in electronics, you should be able create your own circuit to bend the TPS as you wish.

If not, you should probably learn.....the S1 can be a headache to tune.

The attesa connects to the ECU via 3 wires:

ATTESA pin -> ECU pin - Description

Pin 3 -> Pin 5 - Tachometer signal

Pin 23 -> Pin 37 - TPS

Pin 34 -> Pin 43 - Sensor ground

Thankfully the unit can be used quite independently. If you feed it a pull-to-ground tach signal, it should function without throwing an error code and turning off the 4WD.

If you are delving into different ECUs, the voltage drop associated with sensors like the TPS will influence what the 4WD thinks your actual throttle amount is. If you have some skill in electronics, you should be able create your own circuit to bend the TPS as you wish.

If not, you should probably learn.....the S1 can be a headache to tune.

thanks fellas yes the s1 seams to be nightmare at the moment aftermarket should solve my problems no end as for tps related things i have done a search but no luck on the voltage adjustment of the actual tps i have seen people mention this ?

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