Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


I think my wife just worked out your plate. Is it from the old cartoon theme song. Godzilla, Godzilla and Godzookey.

I've told him this many times, but it happens to just be a coincidence that works nicely.

Don't burn the clutch out practicing

 

When you burn da clutch. [emoji52] n its lower than new.

The clutch pedal inches up or down. Other words when it bites is it lower to firewall or higher to the steering wheel when its worn. ?

 

Also is it auto adjusting or can i go do manual adjustments. ?

[emoji57]

 

 

 
When you burn da clutch. [emoji52] n its lower than new.
The clutch pedal inches up or down. Other words when it bites is it lower to firewall or higher to the steering wheel when its worn. ?
 
Also is it auto adjusting or can i go do manual adjustments. ?
[emoji57]
 
 

Being hydraulic it isn't gonna go down... I haven't burnt out enough to know this 100% but In theory the grip point will raise
  • Like 2
Ha na its from the budwiser Commercial whazzzuuuuppp but one of the guys say hey dookey pick up the phone, and i preffered z00key

How was the second day on the job Dean? Man I was tired this morning. I went and picked up a huge lump of 12mm thick pipe and some turret punchings this morning. Then done a 11hr day just got home. I know what burnt toast feels like! Scrape off the shit and start again tomorrow!
  • Like 1
13 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


How was the second day on the job Dean? Man I was tired this morning. I went and picked up a huge lump of 12mm thick pipe and some turret punchings this morning. Then done a 11hr day just got home. I know what burnt toast feels like! Scrape off the shit and start again tomorrow!

yeah i struggled to get up big time this morning

 

what was your best pass last night? got a timeslip?

  • Like 1
Yeah not bad. How was the drive home car still good and did ya hav3le a grin going home thinking I got a 12 sec car

Panicked when I left the motor plex the diff had some judder on the first take off round the corner. Oi!. Went and done some figure of 8's and it was all good. When I changed the diff oil it did the same thing with fresh 75/90 so I got some ford l.s.d. Paste off Dave and it did the trick. I would assume from the launches and horrid rear end tramping through first and second on the slippery strip with no cornering it just pushed the good thickness out of the clutch packs. (hope so?) I launched it pretty hard close to home and it gripped and took off like a animal. I think the main problem on the launches was because I lifted the ride height on the tein basics and it firmed the whole car up on the set spring rate too much. It's pretty obvious also that the Achilles s2 are crap tyres. I scored the full set for $360 at cost price so nuff said.
  • Like 1

Being hydraulic it isn't gonna go down... I haven't burnt out enough to know this 100% but In theory the grip point will raise

I've noticed when the car is cold the full face n.p.c. Is real close to the floor. You have to bump it twice just to get going. But when the car is warm. (not thermostat hot) but driven it behaves pretty normally like the xr8.
22 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


I've noticed when the car is cold the full face n.p.c. Is real close to the floor. You have to bump it twice just to get going. But when the car is warm. (not thermostat hot) but driven it behaves pretty normally like the xr8.

i dont think ive ever noticed a difference in any of my cars with temp...

 

maybe you have a tiny bit of air in it? no idea

yeah i struggled to get up big time this morning
 
what was your best pass last night? got a timeslip?

Best pass for the car was 12.8. But my reaction time was 0.7sec lol noob. 177kph terminal. So 13.5. I had major troubles hooking it up and had really bad tramping and wheelspin. Never done the 1/4 before. I tried dropping it at 4000.then 3500. Then 3000. And 2500 like traffic lights. Had 34psi in those shit Achilles tyres so nuff said. Lesson learned. Any tips or advice? Apart from new tyres or lower psi learned that the hard way. It only has the tein basic coil overs when I got the car it was on the deck and hooked up ok and left 11's on the road, but i raised it to 100mm all round for the police jockey wheel. through lifting it it has compressed the springs and is hard as all round. I was a bit disappointed with the times but even with a very mild launch it just tramped all the way through 1/2 under not full pedal and hooked up in 3. Bummer. Virginal. I launched it hard on the way home and it just hooked up and went with a tiny bit of tramping perfect. I thought the track would have way more grip than the street but total opposite. Live and learn. Was driving it through the the d/s window a couple of times. It has a full hicas delete but is obvious the tyres are crap with too much psi. Bummer. 4 wins and 1 loss with no Sau sticker. I got torched off the line by nearly everyone but 18psi in 3/4 sorted it. Bit embarrassing but there you have it. No traction at all. I reckon even with 100kg of sand bags in the boot would have been sweet.
3 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Best pass for the car was 12.8. But my reaction time was 0.7sec lol noob. 177kph terminal. So 13.5. I had major troubles hooking it up and had really bad tramping and wheelspin. Never done the 1/4 before. I tried dropping it at 4000.then 3500. Then 3000. And 2500 like traffic lights. Had 34psi in those shit Achilles tyres so nuff said. Lesson learned. Any tips or advice? Apart from new tyres or lower psi learned that the hard way. It only has the tein basic coil overs when I got the car it was on the deck and hooked up ok and left 11's on the road, but i raised it to 100mm all round for the police jockey wheel. through lifting it it has compressed the springs and is hard as all round. I was a bit disappointed with the times but even with a very mild launch it just tramped all the way through 1/2 under not full pedal and hooked up in 3. Bummer. Virginal. I launched it hard on the way home and it just hooked up and went with a tiny bit of tramping perfect. I thought the track would have way more grip than the street but total opposite. Live and learn. Was driving it through the the d/s window a couple of times. It has a full hicas delete but is obvious the tyres are crap with too much psi. Bummer. 4 wins and 1 loss with no Sau sticker. I got torched off the line by nearly everyone but 18psi in 3/4 sorted it. Bit embarrassing but there you have it. No traction at all. I reckon even with 100kg of sand bags in the boot would have been sweet.

Let the psi down, ur never gonna do much with low profile tyres anyways. Ur not gonna have much traction by just droping the clutch at what ever rpm, needs to be a gradual out with the clutch and on with the power. Like i said to pol, find that sweetspot where ur not on full boost but have some to leave with. Takes patience and practice. For the drag car we just stage it and push the transbrake button until the last amber lights up, the delay box then lets the car leaves at full noise when the light goes green lol

  • Like 1
 





Best pass for the car was 12.8. But my reaction time was 0.7sec lol noob. 177kph terminal. So 13.5. I had major troubles hooking it up and had really bad tramping and wheelspin. Never done the 1/4 before. I tried dropping it at 4000.then 3500. Then 3000. And 2500 like traffic lights. Had 34psi in those shit Achilles tyres so nuff said. Lesson learned. Any tips or advice? Apart from new tyres or lower psi learned that the hard way. It only has the tein basic coil overs when I got the car it was on the deck and hooked up ok and left 11's on the road, but i raised it to 100mm all round for the police jockey wheel. through lifting it it has compressed the springs and is hard as all round. I was a bit disappointed with the times but even with a very mild launch it just tramped all the way through 1/2 under not full pedal and hooked up in 3. Bummer. Virginal. I launched it hard on the way home and it just hooked up and went with a tiny bit of tramping perfect. I thought the track would have way more grip than the street but total opposite. Live and learn. Was driving it through the the d/s window a couple of times. It has a full hicas delete but is obvious the tyres are crap with too much psi. Bummer. 4 wins and 1 loss with no Sau sticker. I got torched off the line by nearly everyone but 18psi in 3/4 sorted it. Bit embarrassing but there you have it. No traction at all. I reckon even with 100kg of sand bags in the boot would have been sweet.

Might cable tie the wife and kids up next time and put them in the wheel well? I spun out on the lights a bit too. Nothing like the big boys on television? White amber's green. Whoops. Was trying to gradually build the boost up to 3500 about 9 p.s.i. like normal but... Whoops tramp spin ass Wednesday.
Let the psi down, ur never gonna do much with low profile tyres anyways. Ur not gonna have much traction by just droping the clutch at what ever rpm, needs to be a gradual out with the clutch and on with the power. Like i said to pol, find that sweetspot where ur not on full boost but have some to leave with. Takes patience and practice. For the drag car we just stage it and push the transbrake button until the last amber lights up, the delay box then lets the car leaves at full noise when the light goes green lol

Yeah i did it gradually even down to a traffic light take off but it just fried the tyres and tramped under 3/4 acceleration all the way through 1/2 and hooked up in 3.
Let the psi down, ur never gonna do much with low profile tyres anyways. Ur not gonna have much traction by just droping the clutch at what ever rpm, needs to be a gradual out with the clutch and on with the power. Like i said to pol, find that sweetspot where ur not on full boost but have some to leave with. Takes patience and practice. For the drag car we just stage it and push the transbrake button until the last amber lights up, the delay box then lets the car leaves at full noise when the light goes green lol

Boost night next Wednesday is going to be awesomeness when Sau shows its colours and we're all down there with our cars tools spare drag tyres, air compressors and a full range of knowledge and what not. Can't wait too learn from you guys and front up as a team so we can out perform everyone! I've booked the date in my calendar even though I'm busy at work. Can't wait!
13 hours ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:


Panicked when I left the motor plex the diff had some judder on the first take off round the corner. Oi!. Went and done some figure of 8's and it was all good. When I changed the diff oil it did the same thing with fresh 75/90 so I got some ford l.s.d. Paste off Dave and it did the trick. I would assume from the launches and horrid rear end tramping through first and second on the slippery strip with no cornering it just pushed the good thickness out of the clutch packs. (hope so?) I launched it pretty hard close to home and it gripped and took off like a animal. I think the main problem on the launches was because I lifted the ride height on the tein basics and it firmed the whole car up on the set spring rate too much. It's pretty obvious also that the Achilles s2 are crap tyres. I scored the full set for $360 at cost price so nuff said.

What diff is in it?

20 hours ago, pol1on1 said:

 

When you burn da clutch. emoji52.png n its lower than new.

The clutch pedal inches up or down. Other words when it bites is it lower to firewall or higher to the steering wheel when its worn. ?

 

Also is it auto adjusting or can i go do manual adjustments. ?

emoji57.png

 

 

Can go either way. If the clutch plate is worn we tend to have pickup real close to up top. If the pressure plate is buggered the pickup is real close to the floor.

 

They are adjustable via master cylinder to get it right




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...