Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most times they should start and idle but run like shit, I've had one that would not run at all, if you have access to known working one then its a piece of piss to eliminate that from the equation.

Most times they should start and idle but run like shit, I've had one that would not run at all, if you have access to known working one then its a piece of piss to eliminate that from the equation.

Cheers, I'll give it a go, got nothing to lose haha

Problem found. Injectors were not flowing properly even though they were supposedly checked by a workshop... Got a second opinion and problem solved. I can't believe 3 injectors stopped flowing at the exact same time, what would cause that?

Anyhow, now I need to set idle and timing on my auto A31 RB20DET.

I've done a lot of research on this site, looked up info from the manual and stickers under the hood, but I'm still a bit unsure about a few bits.

According to the sticker under my hood, idle and timing needs to be set to 700rpm @ 20deg BTDC.

Setting RB20DET idle:

Engine needs to be at normal operating temp.

Shift lever to 'N' position.

Make sure all accessories are of.

Idle needs to be set to 700rpm.

Simply disconnect AAC valve and turn idle screw appropriately to set.

Then reconnect AAC valve.

Here are some things I'm unsure about:

I've read a few things in regards to adjusting idle with the ECU screw. When and why does this need to be done?

Also, the way I understand it, the AAC valve is only in use under certain circumstances, eg. AC or headlights are on, steering wheel turned, etc. So that would mean normally it would not be in use. Therefore, after setting idle to 700rpm with AAC disconnected, then reconnecting it, the idle really shouldn't change from 700rpm unless the AC was turned on, or anything else that engages the AAC?

Setting RB20DET timing:

I know how timing is set, but there are a few little details I'm unsure of.

Is timing also set at N 'position'?

Is timing set with AAC connected or disconnected?

What about the TPS, is it meant to be connected? The manual says nothing about disconnecting it, but I've read a number of people saying it should be disconnected when setting timing?

Finally, before carrying out any idle or timing adjustments is it important to first check and eliminate any air/vacuum leaks, as well as, making sure the cold air regulator is properly opening and closing?

Sorry for the long post, but thank you everyone for your help.

Have a top weekend!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...