Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone ever tried doweling the main stud girdle to the block to eliminate girdle walk, while not also having to deal with added below the block height that girdle plate/adapter plates make?

I figure it could be done with a bunch of 8mm tool steel dowels next to the main bolts, or alternatively with hollow chromoly dowels that would slip over the main studs and be recessed into the block and girdle.

Doing this as opposed to heading down the billet main cap/girdle plate path would mean no align bore needed, so typical wet sump pumps are still able to be used.

I would argue that it would be just as strong from a main-cap perspective too, as eliminating girdle walk ties the girdle and the block together more firmly.

Where as an alloy billet main cap can still walk on the block, and is relying entirely on the rigid strength of the plate to reduce block flex to reduce main cap walk.

Any thoughts?

I can't speak for the RB

but i've know guys who have had very limited success on Holden V8s and Clevelands.

The caps still walked, but not as much. The issue was fixed by going to steel 4 bolt mains caps.

But given the RB has a girdle it should work better.

Dowels aren't really for holding things in place, just aligning.

I would try to machine edges on the girdle and block, and fit correctly sized keys either side of the girdle between the block.

Dowels aren't really for holding things in place, just aligning.

I would try to machine edges on the girdle and block, and fit correctly sized keys either side of the girdle between the block.

For a cylinder head, yes I'd agree.

But what I have in mind is more like you'd see on a connecting rod, with a dowel that is hollow, tapered and is an interference fit into the block and girdle cap.

This is only speculation but if someone could x-ray a block they may be able to get an idea of whether going a 4 bolt main cap was possible like old Holden V8's and many others? There's the added benefit of locking everything together by stopping the bottom of the block expanding.

It may throw the whole thing out of whack though by introducing new stresses onto the block.

The caps are all tied together by the girdle so cap walking is not that much of a issue on RB engines.

Lets also not forget that to set the thrust bearing face, we need to be able to walk the center cap, when they are tied, they all will walk to set it.

If the caps were individual id say pinning would be needed.

Hollow centering caps like on the rods are not designed for side loads, they are for accurate positioning of the cap for tightening, neither would hollow pins be any good as they are weak for side loads, for accurate firm centering you would need tapered solid pins.

To do it is not hard, you can buy the tapered pins in long lengths and cut them to the tapered section width you need, the reamers are available from engineer supplies as are the pins (not cheap i might add)

The issue is there is not much room/meat in the block or girdle to place a pin without weakening both.

I looked into it as ive done the solid tapered pin mod to 265 Hemi engines mains in the past.

I even pinned in the big end bearings into the rods on 265's in the same way in the past to combat bearings spinning from rod bolt stretch.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've dowelled the billet main caps to the block many times now with custom made en26 dowels. Been doing it for big hp drag engines for the last 3+ years. It works very well and it makes the machining and assembly process far easier and quicker.

I doubt if you could get away with dowelling the factory girdle and block and not require a tunnel hone at the minimum.

I machined up hollow dowels to locate around the main studs in case you wanted to know. I've had no dramas with this method to date. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...