Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay. So I ended up finishing my s13 build and the total build cost from non rolling she’ll to complete and drifted. Only once sadly. Was the same amount. $3390. And due to unforeseen circumstances I had to sell it. Plus I decided I wanted an r-chassis. 
So I sold it for $3000, $500 less then what I was asking. But for what was done I thought it was a very reasonable price.

Later that week. I decided enough was enough I needed a new car asap, well a project at least. So I went out and found my self a 1993 r33 gtst complete shell. With a small spot of surface rust on the roof and a small rust hole in the boot well were the only real problems minus missing all running gear (motor box Ecu fuel pump) and on standard suspension I was expecting much worse but for $800 I was overall very happy with this purchase.

This shell has mint paint a very shitty front bar. So that was the first to go. 
Sold it the night I bought the shell home. And then it was off to look for another one. I picked up a r33 gtr front bar pair of wheels 18x8.5 +32 20mm spacers and a s2 Wing for a steal of $200. So that after noon I fitted the front bar. With minor modification i got it to fit great nice and flush. I’m planning on using the 18 inch wheels I got as skid wheels for when I get it drifting along with their standard 16s they came with.

So plans for the car are to street register it and drive it mainly for weekends and the odd trip to work and home and drifted when I wanted to while keeping it very reliable.

Any advice that can be given I'll take and the same with criticism good or bad.

post-140318-14339244357015_thumb.jpgpost-140318-1433924448628_thumb.jpgpost-140318-14339244841284_thumb.jpgpost-140318-14339244968169_thumb.jpgpost-140318-14339245101493_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457365-my-r33-daily-driven-drifter-build/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

@mikha1.

Got oem skirts and don't like the look of gtr wings haha.

Eyelids are coming off though. Not what I like to see on cars. But thanks for the comment on the base

Started stripping the engine bay for a quick respray in the coming weeks but due to slamming my wrist against the strut tower and it swelling to the size of a ballon. I've stopped. Any advise on how to remove brake booster??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...