Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been looking into base heighte adjustable Coilover options for my V36 coupe and having trouble deciding on which way to go.

Ultimately I would prefer a new set in terms of piece of mind, reliability and life-span - however looking for something with a good balance of price vs quality. Not sure on whether best to go with a true coilover setup on all 4, or whether to go true coilovers front and separate strut and spring on rear - like some companies out there provide.

I have BC Coilovers in my Y34 Gloria and have been quite happy with them in terms of ride quality vs stability balance, etc - however I really am at a loss with regards to which sets to consider for the V36.

My previous V35 had very firm coilovers with minimal travel and I really want to avoid this issue in this car!

Currently the V36 has RS*R lowered springs with standard struts, sitting on 20in Works. Sit's fairly nicely and rides really too.. But it would be nice to be able to set the car up as I want and at the perfect height instead of just dealing with what the lowered springs allow for.

Anyone who has experience with coilovers for V36 or can assist in anyway, would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Chris.

post-99081-0-81747000-1434704991_thumb.jpg

Limited experience, but first hand none the less... I'm super happy with the Tanabe Sustec Pro's (adjustable coilovers) + 20" Treasure One wheels fitted to my PV36 Skyline from Japan :)

When I picked up my Skyline it had cheap tyres with plenty of wear and tear, and was in desperate need of a wheel alignment...

My new Achilles ATR Sport 2 235/35/R20 tyres have since arrived and have been fitted + balanced (and a four wheel alignment completed) and now she drives like a dream!

So now I can confidently say that I'm happy with the ride quality / stability / handling from this coilover setup - without cheap tyres and a poor wheel alignment skewing my judgment :D

p_20150610_152514-large.jpg

p_20150610_152755-large.jpg

Edited by Sikahalv

Good to know thanks for the input!

Yeah when I first looked at mine and took it for a test drive the tyres were shagged (still tyres from japan).Once new tyres fitted and wheel alignment complete it was perfect.

Got a brand new in box set of these, got them from japan but never got around getting them fitted and now thinking of selling the car so these have to go as well.

Brand: CST Type Vettel Fully adjustable suspension

Made in Japan

Pics from internet i have not opened the box yet its still sealed.

Pm me if anyone interested thanks

post-23808-0-19471400-1434864329_thumb.jpg

I had RSR black coilovers on my coupe for a while. I found them to be comfortable while I was driving on Japanese roads, but they're likely to be much harsher on Australian roads. I ultimately changed them because they were too low (at max height, only ~10cm clearance).

I've now got the KW V3s and highly recommend them if you can find the extra cash. They cost me around $AU2200 new three years ago.

The ride is sporty and not too harsh (can still feel the road but you don't dread long road-trips).

I can even drive over longer speed humps at 40km/hr without issues, whereas I would've been airborne at 30km/hr if I had stiffer Japanese coilovers

I haven't tried true coilovers on this car, both the above aren't.

I had RSR black coilovers on my coupe for a while. I found them to be comfortable while I was driving on Japanese roads, but they're likely to be much harsher on Australian roads. I ultimately changed them because they were too low (at max height, only ~10cm clearance).

I've now got the KW V3s and highly recommend them if you can find the extra cash. They cost me around $AU2200 new three years ago.

The ride is sporty and not too harsh (can still feel the road but you don't dread long road-trips).

I can even drive over longer speed humps at 40km/hr without issues, whereas I would've been airborne at 30km/hr if I had stiffer Japanese coilovers

I haven't tried true coilovers on this car, both the above aren't.

$2,200? what the....that's really good price! Been lusting after a set for so long.

I got them when the Australian dollar was basically on par with the US dollar

Bought it via a shop on myg37.com, was $USD1800 + 200 delivery to Japan, so there was no import tax either

Ok, two things here, I now have a set of MCA Blue coilovers as my car was the test mule for the design of them to suit the V36. They are perfect and fully adjustable. I highly recomend them. http://mcasuspension.com/

Secondly, I replaced the coilovers that were on the car when imported. They are RS-R Black's and they are for sale... $1000 to whoever wants them. Perfect condition.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...