Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo R34 Gtt Auto Cluster Into Manual R34 Gtt

Nismo34R

By Nismo34R,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nismo34R Enthusiast

Nismo34R

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

My friend and I both own 34 GTT's. My car is fitted with a nismo triple gauge and cluster combo where as his are the stock ones. Being good mates and competitive with one another in a very healthy way I might add.. :P I might have to get myself a racepak/haltech electronic cluster down the track now haha

He has gone on the hunt and bought himself a nismo triple gauge from Japan since they seem to be rare as hens teeth here!

He has spent the last month ringing around and scouring the net for a cluster but can't really find anything with very similar km's.. He found a nismo auto cluster which only has 200 more km's then his car so it's as close as you're going to get without buying a brand new one for top top $ and spending $300 for a specialist to wind the brand new one from 0 to his current odometer reading.

The dilemma being he has a manual car.. We've both done plenty of research but can't find a definitive answer!? If you could find a manual dial surround to cover the auto gears in the middle of the rev/speed gauge would that work? Or is your issue going to be the auto cluster will only work with an auto ecu?

I'm hoping I can get a definitive answer of whether it can be done so that's why I'm asking everyone on here!

Cheers,

Pete..

Nismo34R Enthusiast

Nismo34R

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Anyone!? Haha

After a few beers this arvo/evening over the footy and dinner we think we may if just solved the problem..

Purchasing any Nismo Cluster and removing the 4 Nismo gauge inserts ( Fuel,Speed, Revs, Temp) with the correct globes for the amber illumination and installing into his manual cluster..

Can anybody confirm these can be removed from the complete cluster unit?

Cheers

Edited by NI55MQ
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Will r33 gtr front reo fit on r33 gtst series 1?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Found the answer: it wont fit without a bit of work- you'd have to change the guards as well
    • gifted1
      Will r33 gtr front reo fit on r33 gtst series 1?

      By gifted1 · Posted

      *monitoring this thread*  😎
    • PranK
      New lightweight, square wheel/tyre combo for the E90

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Kinkstaah
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
×
×
  • Create New...