Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

a couple of days ago after a hard drive back from the airport my R32 started idling funny. When warm it started bouncing from idle (800 rpm) to 2000 rpm. I've been driving the car for a couple of days now, and it's quite embarassing. When I'm at the lights people think I'm trying to run them!

I have searched the forums long and hard, and have cleaned my AAC Valve to no avail. I now believe it is the air regulator. Problem is I don't know were this is. I read that it was underneath the intake plenum. If someone could take a pic that would be great. Also if anyone knows if this part is servicable, or will I need to replace it?

If anyone esle has had the same problem I would love to hear their input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45774-r32-gts-t-fluctuating-idle/
Share on other sites

I've had a really bad fluctuating idle that also had a slight miss.

I cleaned the AAC valve and the idle fluctuation was ALMOST gone.

2 years later I put the mesh back on to the AFM and all idle problems are gone.

Its now got a 100% perfect smooth idle.

I have heard of o2 sensors also causing an issue.

My actions would be.

Clean AAC valve

Check if your afm has mesh on both the front and rear. If not slap it on.

If idle problems are still around either get your injectors cleaned/checked out or replace the o2 sensor.

after a really hard run, e.g. running 70 laps on a circuit over a whole trackday, the hydraulic lifters sometimes get a bit stuffed, which would also cause the funny idle. will usually go back to normal after a few days, or after a service. my own experience.. :D

after a really hard run, e.g. running 70 laps on a circuit over a whole trackday, the hydraulic lifters sometimes get a bit stuffed, which would also cause the funny idle.  will usually go back to normal after a few days, or after a service.  my own experience.. :D

70 laps would see the complete breakdown of your engine oil, almost to a water like state, hence the problem with the lifters. Do you have a oil cooler? What sort of oil do you run?

In regards to idle problem, AAC valve is usually the culprit

Ok guys,

Nissan called this mourning and after 2 days of tying to figure it out there still unsure. They said that because it's an import there diagnostic machine can't read

all the codes?! Thay reffered me to another workshop. On top of this they tried to

charge me for there time. I refused to pay as I don't think they did anything.

Hopefully I have better luck with the next place.

chris32 - heheh i don't run 70 laps all in one go... 10-15 laps at a time, 5-7 sessions a trackday. Using Valvoline fully syn, car has run extremely reliably for over a year of about 15 trackdays inc 2 at Eastern Creek with very low knock readings (std 11 yr old engine with HKS 2530). Running a BEL Garage 19 row oil cooler and 3-core radiator.

chris32 - heheh i don't run 70 laps all in one go... 10-15 laps at a time, 5-7 sessions a trackday.  Using Valvoline fully syn, car has run extremely reliably for over a year of about 15 trackdays inc 2 at Eastern Creek with very low knock readings (std 11 yr old engine with HKS 2530).  Running a BEL Garage 19 row oil cooler and 3-core radiator.

cool, sounds like a good setup you have there. I run a decent oil cooler myself, and a similar turbo to yours. Only have done one trackday of about 25 laps, but it kept it nice and cool

Chris

why keep on guessing by replacing this and replacing that???? You need to systimatically go through all the vacuum piping to and from the AAC valve & idle control solenoid and clamp them off with a brake line clamp and see if this changes the fast idle. Simple. If the idle does not change then its something else like a inlet manifold gasket blown out (very common in older skylines).

This can be confirmed with the ol can of break disc cleaner in an aerosol can. Give it a squirt alone the inlet manifold right against the cylinder head and if the gasket is gone, broken, blown out, it will get sucked in and the idle will stumble as it burns the break cleaner fluid.

Give that a go.

Changing the O2 sensor just for the sake of it could well be a waste of your money, besides, even if it is stuffed that won't make your idle jump up & down like that.

MIke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...