Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Issues

steeldawg_69
 Share

Recommended Posts

steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update......turns out I have a very bad maf, I can't even get the injectors to pulse when it is plugged in so I'm trying to source one. I tried to resolder the pins but still not working, it's safe to say it's toast. I also received the correct cas grommet, so I'll see what the timing is when I get the replacement maf.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Update......turns out I have a very bad maf, I can't even get the injectors to pulse when it is plugged in so I'm trying to source one. I tried to resolder the pins but still not working, it's safe to say it's toast. I also received the correct cas grommet, so I'll see what the timing is when I get the replacement maf.

Have you tried cleaning the element with carb or brake cleaner?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update....Not sure how much of a progress this is if any at all. I bought two brand new mafs, took out the wire loom, checked and double checked every pinout, every sensor checked and cleaned as was necessary, redid mechanical timing (again). I also cleaned and put back the stock injectors in the car. The car starts and idles but as soon as I blip the gas it shuts off, the timing is 5 (yes 5) degrees btdc with the cas fully adjusted, this is with the front cover on, I'm sure if I were to the the front cover off again I would get about 15 btdc. This what I HAVEN'T done yet, a) compression test b) full the car with gasoline and light it. Believe me I'm close to the latter. The car ran great before I spun bearings and that was 4 years ago, I took my time with this rebuild so it would be right, smh. I'm out of ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Update....Not sure how much of a progress this is if any at all. I bought two brand new mafs, took out the wire loom, checked and double checked every pinout, every sensor checked and cleaned as was necessary, redid mechanical timing (again). I also cleaned and put back the stock injectors in the car. The car starts and idles but as soon as I blip the gas it shuts off, the timing is 5 (yes 5) degrees btdc with the cas fully adjusted, this is with the front cover on, I'm sure if I were to the the front cover off again I would get about 15 btdc. This what I HAVEN'T done yet, a) compression test b) full the car with gasoline and light it. Believe me I'm close to the latter. The car ran great before I spun bearings and that was 4 years ago, I took my time with this rebuild so it would be right, smh. I'm out of ideas.

If your cam gear bolts made contact with the cas then the cas might be ruined they are sensitive and wont take much to ruin them thats another thing to take care of, Ive had a similar issue when I forgot to run washers with no timing cover and exhuast cam bolts were rubbing cas car would run for few min then die timing was off and I had to fully turn cas to even start it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well turns out that the ignitor took a crap, not sure if this was the reason I was having the car erratically shut down at times after idling for a few minutes or if it was causing me to have the above mention timing problems, there was no spark generated on number one cylinder which has me scratching my head as I checked for this as late as last week and it was sparking like it should. I borrowed a friend's ignitor just to make sure. I'll get one and I'll let you guys know what happens with the timing. I still think there is something else wrong but I'll know soon enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it's been 2 months to the day since I started this thread and while some issues have been resolved the core problem still remains with me, in addition to that there is this sound I'm starting to get especially when the engine warms up. I've been told it's the timing belt too tight, I have since backed off the tension and still I'm hearing this sound. I have installed a greddy timing belt and I have tomei adjustable cam gears. I will try to upload a video clip with the sound. The timing is at 20 deg BTDC but only when I have the cas all the way adjusted. Mechanical timing is spot on (checked over 10 times), tried two stock ecus and still I have the same issue with timing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It turns out that it wasn't the belts, the noise I was able to trace to around the exhaust side of the head. I took the cams out and discovered that the oil orifice under the E1 cam cap was clogged, so I cleaned and unclogged the same, put everything back together and I have no more noise. My original timing issue remains though but I'll seek help elsewhere. Thanks to you and everyone else who took the time out to reply and give suggestions, they were all appreciated. I'll post the picture of what I saw when I removed the cams.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
steeldawg_69 Contributor

steeldawg_69

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Solved........I'm posting my findings as it relates to my original problem which was the cas was fully anticlockwise and my timing was 10-13 deg btdc. It turns out that the ignitor pack's BODY has to be grounded. This is especially for guys who do swaps. By chance I grounded mine and when I started the car and checked the timing it read like 35 deg btdc, I was able to rotate the cas clockwise and set the timing to 20 deg btdc. Hope this helps someone.

post-26402-0-88806500-1442619092_thumb.jpg

Edited by steeldawg_69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • robbo_rb180
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      I've driven that one and it's a great deal and drives nice. The owner definitely treats it right on track. You would have gotten it for what you paid for this one too.   Keen to see what you do to this one. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Front Tyres on R34 GTR, fitment, etc, *question*

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards. All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old. At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here: All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself. Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out? Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo) At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins. I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR. If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes
    • Kinkstaah
      URAS Type R R34 GT GTT Widebody Front Guards

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Genuine URAS Type R front guards in FRP. These will fit a GTT. They will only fit a GTT. If you have a GT or GTT and want wider fenders with a Z tune look up top, this is what you want. You use this with a regular GTT fitment bar. Not a GTR bar. They fit GTT guard liners and plastics, not GTR items. So if you're reading this thinking "Ah! I have a GTT or GT and want wider front guards that bolt directly on, but do not want the hassle of changing my bonnet and bumper and plastics and undertrays or anything else, this is what you want. The fitment is annoyingly perfect. I really would rather someone pick these up in person and not ship them. SE Melb.
    • admS15
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By admS15 · Posted

      FYP
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Why didn't you buy the one I originally linked in QLD which was about 18k and in massively better condition with about 30k of tastefulmods holyshitmygodjesuschristman.
×
×
  • Create New...