Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Car is running rich and not smooth (acceleration, hesitation etc). I am thinking it's the o2 sensors.

My car is a r34 gtr and it currently has a power fc installed and tuned recently.

First question, when dyno tuning, do the tuners take into account the o2 sensors?

I decided to disconnect both o2 sensors and went for a drive, it feels perfect!

Second question, driving without o2 sensors connected, is it bad for the engine? (my car is running rich with the sensors connected anyway, i dont have any way to check air fuel ratios)

Thirdly, can I conclude that the o2 sensors are faulty?

Finally, I want to replace my o2 sensors anyway... I know I need the zirconia ones. Both sensors are they same right? Just different plugs? (One square, one oval?) Can someone please point me to a link or a place to buy a pair of them?

Thanks alot guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458174-r34-gtr-o2-sensor-problem/
Share on other sites

You should do some more searching as all those answers can be solved pretty quickly but I can summarize I guess.

1. You have a PowerFC so you should get ahold of the FAQ guide and you can actually go through the menu and check to see if your O2 senors are working from a Hand Controller. When Dyno Tuning, the sensors are either turned on or off basically as they are set to open or closed loop. When they are on they just trim fuel on cruise loads to increase fuel efficiency basically. Research some more if you want to learn more. If your tuner is good you can just turn them off and tune with the sensors and get the results you want anyway.

2. You can test oxygen sensors to see if they are faulty with a multimeter, if you get a very small voltage they are not working, forget what the actual range is. Search for how what values to look for a what wires (of the 3) to check.

3. You need the correct sensors for your GTR, which if it isn't a 32, you use zirconia ones. The 32 ones use a different composite and they don't work for the 33/34. Look up Kudos motorsport as they sell OEM senors. Could source elsewhere from Japan cheaper if you are keen. I wouldn't bother replacing them unless they are actually not working though. Do the test first.

4. Your car should be running rich (not excessive though) so if anything not having an O2 sensor would just make your fuel efficiency worse if it hasn't been compensated for by the tuner and you unplug the sensor. You might get fault codes and other stuff appear but there shouldn't be any real problems as far as I know.

5. Get a wide band for your car so you can measure and read AFR values while driving if you want. Very handy for tuning and detecting fuel issues that may occur. The PowerFC Hand Controller is very useful if you know how to use and read off it. Wouldn't suggest making any changes as they are only temporary from the controller anyway, but good to understand what you can monitor and see in case you have any problems that come up.

In short, you can just ask your tuner if he has it set to closed/open loop or how he set the tune up as he should know. Liked stated in the dot points, the car should run rich but not to a ridiculous point. If you have concerns after fixing/checking O2 sensors raise it with your tuner maybe.

Edited by breaker1845

Thanks for that! Haven't had the chance to talk to my tuner yet...

The thing is with the o2 sensors connected.. it is running excessively rich, as in... 250km a full tank on a r34 gtr.

WITHOUT the o2 sensors connected, it is running fine.. and I can see an improvement in millage already. (Haven't finish the tank yet)

I know that running rich is somewhat fine, I just don't want it to run lean.

Think what I'm really asking is.. can I just run my car with the o2 sensors disconnected till I can find new o2 sensors as a temporary fix?

If it really is your O2 sensor, you can disable it via power fc hand controller anyway without having to physically unplug it

Some people here don't run O2 sensors including myself provided your tuner has done a good job.

My understanding is that closed loop is only applied during cruising and idle after car warms up, so it shouldn't affect your car too much if you disable it, unless your tune is really off in the cruising cells, which is unlikely but then again no one can confirm that except for your tuner

Check your PowerFC first to see if they are even switched on because if they aren't, unplugging them shouldn't do anything.

Also poor fuel consumption may not just be O2 sensors, other components can affect that too. But you did say you had some issues with hesitation and such that you believe is cleared once you disable the oxygen sensors.

If you have time, discussing with your tuner about your level of satisfaction or what you have discovered about the tune may also help if it was recently done.

You won't run lean disconnecting the o2 sensors either if that is your concern. You can order new sensors if you want from Kudos and they usually arrive at your door within a few days.

If the sensors are buggered (you can check readings from PowerFC or manually) then effectively if they are on and you disconnect them it would be beneficial, which I suspect could be your case.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-NTK-OXYGEN-O2-SENSOR-NISSAN-R33-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-lambda-oxy-cyl-4-6-/111455121782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19f33e3176

Can someone please confirm that these are the sensors I need?

Front and rear sensors are the same but different plug design.

I need to order two of them, however because of the plug design, I have to cut and connect to existing plugs?

Thanks guys. Once I get a response, I'll order them right away.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-NTK-OXYGEN-O2-SENSOR-NISSAN-R33-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-lambda-oxy-cyl-4-6-/111455121782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19f33e3176

Can someone please confirm that these are the sensors I need?

Front and rear sensors are the same but different plug design.

I need to order two of them, however because of the plug design, I have to cut and connect to existing plugs?

Thanks guys. Once I get a response, I'll order them right away.

Check with your tuner first. When my Link was installed the O2 sensor was removed as the ECU takes care of the idle and cruise. You may not need to spend the money.

Never used O2s, only had them there to keep the Poleeece happy.

A decent tuner will tune better than what the O2 will provide in terms of "trim" etc. So go back and talk to them. Don't go spending money if you don't need it, and really, you shouldn't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...