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Replace Valve Springs,seals And Head Studs

BlackBox

By BlackBox,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted

When replacing the headbolts I with arp items am I able to replace 1 bolt at a time as not to disturb head gasket or will I have to replace the headgasket? I'm also replacing vale stem seals and valve springs so would I be better to just remove the head?

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Not sure on your specific engine (as I have never seen that engine in person), but I did this exact job on a 2JZ Supra. It's not easy working valve stem seals all day laying on the engine, and depending on miles you may want to take the valves out and lap them / clean / port the head while you are at it for not much more expense than a new head gasket...which isn't a lot of money. But if you are talking valve stem seals, then I can assume it's got some miles. I would be pulling the head unless you just want it to stop smoking on startup and off idle.

Also I'm sure the studs could be changed while the engine is in the car, but you may want someone to cofirm.

My .02.

Edited by HarrisRacing
BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
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Posted

Engine has 100,000 km on it. Didn't really have any problems just thought I should do them while in there. I was going to get a valve/ port job but it was quickly dismissed as a waste of $$ at my goals ~350rwkw on 98

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

But if I disturb the headgasket is there I chance I will need to reface the head or block?

If using a metal gasket the block should ideally be machined correctly for it. It's good practice to machine the head when removing it also but I wouldn't say it's mandatory.

Give it a go with the head on. It's been done before. Royce did it and is making stupid power, like over 500rwkw or something.

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