Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I installed the Autospeed DIY boost controller last night and did some extensive testing to get it working the way I wanted.

I set it up for a max of 12 PSI, with no spiking and bringing on boost at a steady level.

I had done about 45km's with it setup like this, then all of a sudden today the car started to idle at 900rpm, which is about 300rpm more than normal.

So I plugged my old Turbosmart BC in and it still did the same thing. Reset the ECU but still nothing. Its still making boost and driving fine.

I might let it cool down before trying again, but anyone got any ideas what could be causing it to idle higher?

Thanks for any help.

Would adjusting the idle with a srewdriver help?
I just took it for another drive, idle was back to 600, but after boosting idle rose to 900 and remained.
So is the DIY boost controller better than say a Cheap $100

1 stage boost controller ?

Besides the DIY, i've only ever used the turbosmart dual stage boost controller, the turbosmart spikes if punched hard.

However the DIY builds at a steady rate once adjusted and seems to hold better, and has yet to spike.

Shane just read the autospeed article, besides the idle prob, did you find the install beneficial? did you source the parts form the supplyer mentioned on the autospeed site?

Yeah its a good setup little setup, however I dont think my issues above are related to the the DIY BC.

It holds boost well and has not spiked at all, unlike my old Turbosmart one which spiked like a mother (but it was pretty old).

Cost <$110 all up for the parts, which were sourced through Norgren in Brisbane.

I have been using the same boost controler for almost 2 years now, and i must say it's great. I also have put in the check valve from the DIY boost controller part 2, and I think it is an essential to help remove all air going to the wastegate actuator on gear changes...

I was also thinking of upgrading to the better pressure regulating valve as the norgren valve is not so good in terms of fine adjustment...

My hoses are much longer than yours, as I have my valves mounted in the engine bay next to the air box, and I have never had any issues with spiking either.

This setup is much better than any bleed valve, or any other pheumatic valve setup i have used before, and is more cost effective than an EBC.

Details ?

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0685/article.html

In this part 2 of the original, they use a better pressure regulator, and also install a check valve so your BOV can do it's job...

I have the check valve, but not the upgraded regulator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 馃槂  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
  • Create New...