Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have afew questions to ask so hopefully you guys can help me out here.

First of all I want to get a r34 but there isnt any on sale and if there is they are over 30k+
So I want to buy a 25gt for the look.
I want to have a awd instead of rwd however I looked around and found there is too much f**king around and costly to convert rwd to awd

So I was thinking about getting a 25gt 4 since it comes stock with awd However I'm not sure if they come turbo as well I could only find na versions...

I would like to have around 300rwkw after modding

if anyone could list me down the specifics and also how much $$$ per specific mod would cost to turbo from na or upgrading the already turbo 25gtt parts to make around 300rwkw

I would appreciate it.

So my first question is Am i better off getting a 25gt4 and putting a turbo onto it and just upgrading the internals and doing everything at once to make 300rwkw ' How much am i looking at per specific part/mod + labour and tuning ? and is it going to be cheaper to make 300 whp ?

Or

Am i just better to get a 25gtt rwd and just work on it to get around 300rwkw ' How much am i looking at per specific part/mod + labour and tune ?

Or just buy a already modded 25gt that is pulling around 200rwkw for around 20 grand ?

I was thinking about buying a 25gtt or 25gt4 at around 10k then spending 10k on top for more power

which would be cheaper and more cost effective

My spending money will be around 10 grand.

Sorry for all the noob questions


Please dont spam random crap if you have no idea what you're talking about or have nothing to do with the questions asked.
Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459003-25-gt-or-25gtt-help-please/
Share on other sites

You could answer all of your questions with information both on this forum and on google but okay...


Buy the GTT and live with 2wd or buy a GTR

Turbocharging your NA GT-4 is not really a good idea, you'll need to buy a turbo engine, turbo, manifold, turbo lines, injectors, fuel pump, ECU intercooler and have it tuned before you can even drive it, then you'd probably want to upgrade your brakes to the turbo brakes

Because you asked for costs ill give some estimates

RB25DET NEO Engine $1500 (give or take, healthy low km or rebuild will throw costs out)
Turbo $1000 (buy a turbo then send to hypergear for highflow)
Manifold Stock or custom $50-1000
3" exhaust $500+
Turbo Lines $200
Injectors $600ish
Fuel rail $250ish
Fuel pump $150-250
ECU too many variables from nistune to standalone
Z32 afm + plug if required $100-300
Intercooler $200-500
Tune $600+
Turbo piping as none of the NA stuff will work, budget $400


If you want 300kw from an R34 GTT just buy one, front mount highflow turbo and 3" exhaust with a nistune will net you that.. almost anyway

Intercooler $200-500
Turbo $750 (send to hypergear and highflow)
3" exhaust $500+
Injectors $600ish
ECU too many variables from nistune to standalone

Tune $600+

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...