Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have afew questions to ask so hopefully you guys can help me out here.

First of all I want to get a r34 but there isnt any on sale and if there is they are over 30k+
So I want to buy a 25gt for the look.
I want to have a awd instead of rwd however I looked around and found there is too much f**king around and costly to convert rwd to awd

So I was thinking about getting a 25gt 4 since it comes stock with awd However I'm not sure if they come turbo as well I could only find na versions...

I would like to have around 300rwkw after modding

if anyone could list me down the specifics and also how much $$$ per specific mod would cost to turbo from na or upgrading the already turbo 25gtt parts to make around 300rwkw

I would appreciate it.

So my first question is Am i better off getting a 25gt4 and putting a turbo onto it and just upgrading the internals and doing everything at once to make 300rwkw ' How much am i looking at per specific part/mod + labour and tuning ? and is it going to be cheaper to make 300 whp ?

Or

Am i just better to get a 25gtt rwd and just work on it to get around 300rwkw ' How much am i looking at per specific part/mod + labour and tune ?

Or just buy a already modded 25gt that is pulling around 200rwkw for around 20 grand ?

I was thinking about buying a 25gtt or 25gt4 at around 10k then spending 10k on top for more power

which would be cheaper and more cost effective

My spending money will be around 10 grand.

Sorry for all the noob questions


Please dont spam random crap if you have no idea what you're talking about or have nothing to do with the questions asked.
Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459003-25-gt-or-25gtt-help-please/
Share on other sites

You could answer all of your questions with information both on this forum and on google but okay...


Buy the GTT and live with 2wd or buy a GTR

Turbocharging your NA GT-4 is not really a good idea, you'll need to buy a turbo engine, turbo, manifold, turbo lines, injectors, fuel pump, ECU intercooler and have it tuned before you can even drive it, then you'd probably want to upgrade your brakes to the turbo brakes

Because you asked for costs ill give some estimates

RB25DET NEO Engine $1500 (give or take, healthy low km or rebuild will throw costs out)
Turbo $1000 (buy a turbo then send to hypergear for highflow)
Manifold Stock or custom $50-1000
3" exhaust $500+
Turbo Lines $200
Injectors $600ish
Fuel rail $250ish
Fuel pump $150-250
ECU too many variables from nistune to standalone
Z32 afm + plug if required $100-300
Intercooler $200-500
Tune $600+
Turbo piping as none of the NA stuff will work, budget $400


If you want 300kw from an R34 GTT just buy one, front mount highflow turbo and 3" exhaust with a nistune will net you that.. almost anyway

Intercooler $200-500
Turbo $750 (send to hypergear and highflow)
3" exhaust $500+
Injectors $600ish
ECU too many variables from nistune to standalone

Tune $600+

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...