Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale:

GTiR PowerFC with commander (hand controller) - plug included

$850 SOLD

IMAG0590_zps6knlxalm.jpg

IMAG0593_zpscszloe7v.jpg

IMAG0592_zpseoli9zmn.jpg

IMAG0591_zpskehi2ynb.jpg

IMAG0589_zpsvkinxrnd.jpg

new belts - $15 each
(6PK1175, 5PK0840, 5PK0825, 4PK955, 4PK860, 4PK855, 4PK775)

GTiR turbo manifold - SOLD
2x NEW OEM SR20 PCV valves - $15 each
N14/15 Whiteline rear swaybar end links w/ bushes (used but good condition) - $40
FWD SR20Distributor cap (not much oxidisation) - $30
SSS 15/16" master cylinder - $30
N15 ABS unit and relays - $20
Timing chain (off GTiR) - $20
SR20 water pump pulley - $15
16x GTiR retainers - $20 for all
1x GTiR cam gear - $10
N15 ECU plastic cover/enclosure thing - $10

Rocker cover gasket (used) + spark plug O-rings (new) - $30
Valve steam seals (exhaust & intake, new) - $40
Intake gaskets (from GTiR, might fit others) - $20 each
2x graphite exhaust gaskets - $10 each
Various turbo gaskets - $10 each for metal, $5 each for others
Graphite head gasket - $20
metal head gasket - $40
GTiR OEM oil cooler - $30

GTiR sandwich plate (for running remote oil filter, fittings included) - $30
Earl's remote oil thermostat w/ fittings - SOLD
Remote oil filter relocation kit w/ hose fittings - $40

Greddy PRofec B spec II with remote switching system
Includes all plugs and required wires, air fittings, Greedy 3-port boost control solenoid (with mounting base), dash unit, remote switching receiver and remote switch.
Condition: Good
Location: Rowville, VIC
Price: $260. SOLD

IMAG0506_zpsjcpw6iev.jpg


Greddy Turbo Timer
Includes plugs and wiring.
Condition: Good
Location: Rowville, VIC
Price: $40 SOLD

Bee*R rev limiter
Condition: Good
Location: Rowville, VIC
Price: $180. SOLD

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Added brand new belts and misc. pulsar bits.PM me for details and pics. postage can be organised.

  • 3 weeks later...

Z32 AFM - mesh removed SOLD
Z32 AFM mounted in a 3" aluminum pipe (10" long) made by Ace Dyno + Workshop. Works fine. $140

IMAG0621_zpsr7l55uur.jpg

IMAG0622_zpsg8fw2sgy.jpg

IMAG0623_zpsdpkt8h4j.jpg

IMAG0624_zps72ogmzm6.jpg

IMAG0625_zpslrbhuer0.jpg

IMAG0626_zpsbqea0o36.jpg

Rocker cover gasket (used) + spark plug O-rings (new) - $30
Valve steam seals (exhaust & intake, new) - $40
Intake gaskets (from GTiR, might fit others) - $20 each
2x graphite exhaust gaskets - $10 each
Various turbo gaskets - $10 each for metal, $5 each for others
Graphite head gasket - $20
metal head gasket - $40
GTiR OEM oil cooler - $30

GTiR sandwich plate (for running remote oil filter, fittings included) - $30
Earl's remote oil thermostat w/ fittings - SOLD

Remote oil filter block - $40

Apexi air filter (used, but cleaner than every other ive seen fitted, bolts included) - $40
^ +$5 for gasket or mounting bracket thing.
Ignition module (not sure if GTiR or SSS) - $15
Distributor cap (probably done 2000kms, very little arcing on the contacts) - $50
Distributor rotor and gasket-thing - $15
NGK blue ignition leads (used) - $25
Crane cams LX91 ignition coil (w/ required plug) - SOLD
Walbro 255 in-tank fuel pump (used, works fine includes new sock) - $70

IMAG0627_zpsvhowwzvi.jpg

IMAG0594_zpsgyup07mz.jpg

IMAG0615_zpsen2jib7w.jpg

IMAG0616_zpsuf3w2sgo.jpg

IMAG0515_zpsdvbxa0bb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Pretty sure it won't. I don't know the GTiR oil filter thread size so not sure about the sandwich plate. Relocation block is available though (M20 filter thread. -8AN fittings included)

You're welcome to the oil thermostat as well

looking at some pics, it might work. not sure how orientation will compare, but see how you go.

I'll stand out the front of my house on tuesday and wednesday and wait for you to drive past.

RB25:

2mpd93a.jpg

wanli1.jpg

GTiR:

engineblock.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...