Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I have spent ages searching the forums and there is a bit on end float but not a lot on what my options are..

Recently took the R32 GTR in for a major service timing belt, water pump etc and the mechanic told me upon picking it up that there is quote "Crankshaft has excessive end float, thrust washer worn excessively" he went on to say there was 2mm or so in movement from what he could tell. As far as I am aware these guys are reputible and deal with a lot of turbo cars and have had some great reviews through SAU but not sure how well they know the rb26.

It does have a heavy aftermarket clutch (unsure brand) so this could be the source of the why this has occurred maybe?

I guess my main questions are:

1. If the above is correct what are my options? Is there a chance this engine could blow? Its fairly stock and its a fun weekender not a crazy track car.

2. Is there a relatively affordable fix or is this an engine out rebuild scenario like the mechanic is hinting?

Greatly appreciate the advice as this is past my knowledge!

Typo??? Crankshaft.

Has been some discussion on the UK forum regarding Exedy heavy duty clutches.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/381993-exeddy-stage-2-clutch-wore-crank-thrust-bearing-after-20-miles.html

Wonder how many cars are driving around with no clue as to their crank end float.

Hyundai's get so bad the pick up for the crank sensor can't get a signal and she stops.

For the crank thrust, i mod the thrust bearings for extra oiling on the thrust face (pull needs the mod on the oil pump facing side, push type clutches need the mod on the flywheel facing side).

ACL bearings sort of already have it done, when using ACL bearings i usually open the mod up for more oiling.

The mod is a channel filed into the parting line of the bearings so extra oil can travel to the thrust bearing face.

Yes never start the engine with the clutch down and dont sit at lights with your foot on the clutch, our clutch is a Jim berry 5800lb cover pressure pull type, you know what that baby will be doing to the thrust bearing.....

eQAJJM.jpg

Thanks for the replies guys,

On the actual shop invoice the exact wording is as follows. "Crankshaft has excessive end float, thrust washer worn excessively"

Appreciate the replies and feedback GTR PSI How hard is it to do that work to the bearings? I live on the Sunshine Coast could get the car to Brissy if I can find someone that can do the work!

Show the pic to a good engine builder, they should jerry the moment they see it.

Its done with a small hand file slowly and carefully, taking care not to mark the bearing face and taking care to remove any material that the file may push onto the parting face, i simply do it using a small hand file..

You only make a 45 degree cut and only cut through the bearing excess, still leaving a flat end for the other half of the bearing to crush against.

Best ask the engine builder to examine a ACL bearing under a magnifying glass, and open up their bearing a little more than they have, or to replicate this onto a non ACL bearing.

You will note if you look at that pic that its a 45 degree cut and the end of the bearing is still flat so it can still crush against the other half of the bearing properly.

  • Like 1

Nah, my father was a old school mechanic who use to do it all himself, he always taught me to look at why something broke, find out how to improve it before i replaced it.

By 9 he had me rebuilding engines with him, by 13 he had me modding stock parts by hand (no performance parts for all models back in those days) and rebuilding them myself with him watching on.

By 16 he said he had no more to show me.......and im 51 and still learning.....

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just get rid of the orignal low impedance injectors, replace with modern high impedance injectors, and you won't need the resistors. Wire direct, as per any other engine.
    • Tao, we're not talking about the ECU boost ref. We're talking about the wastegate signal source.
    • Flapping up and down is a consequence of the varying pull on the belt. When the engine speed is suddenly increased, the tension in the belt increases too. When that engine accel changes to decel, the tension is reduced and turns up as a little extra length of beltes between the pulling and dragging pulleys. That extra length flaps up, then down. There's all sorts of other harmonic stuff going on too.
    • hello ladies and gentlemen so i’ve swapped a rb26dett into my r33 gtst and ive come across many speed bumps but its nearly over what im having issues with is the injector resistor box that are normally on the RB26 fuse box but im still using my rb25 fuse box and as a result my injectors aren’t getting power and is the last thing i need to figure out so the car can start. can anyone help me out on where i can find a wiring diagram for the rb26 harness to see where the injectors are supposed to receive power 
    • The boost pressure at the compressor cover will be higher than at inlet manifold. lets say, trying to hold 20 psi flat at 7000 RPM. If your wastegate opens at 20 psi measured at the compressor cover, the engine may only be seeing 16 psi. Your base pressure reading at engine would be 20psi by 4K and 16psi by 7K while your MAP at compressor housing still reads 20psi at 7K. For this reason your ECU's MAP source is never on the compressor cover. This difference isn't a major concern if you're using an electronic boost controller (EBC).
×
×
  • Create New...