Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this one is driving me batty.

2001 M35 141xxx on the clock

Things done so far.

- New rear rotors

- New rear pads

- Adjusted handbrake cable to stop clinking noise

- Replaced inner front drivers cv boot

- No play in bearings at all

- New tyres on the front balanced and aligned all four (rears are at 90%) no flat spots bulges tears or repairs.

- Hub centric rings on the way (car came with aftermarket 18s)

- New front ball joints on the way - boots just started to split.

I have a noise coming from the rear right (possibly front but hard to discern) its rhythmic with the speed of the car once per revolution frequency is directly proportional to speed, sounds like ffft ffft ffft ffft , almost like a nail in the tyre. Really prominent when driving next to a wall or similar.

There is no vibrations no creaks no clunks.

I have stripped each wheel back to the hub and checked and cleaned everything put it together , apart from the balljoints the the hub rings and the Nissan shaft ping when taking off everything looks to be in order.

Can anyone point me in another direction?

Im leaning towards ordering new rear bearings even though there is no noise from them no play no grinding whirring or humming.

Thank you all in advance

Edited by malialipali
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460404-fft-ffft-rythmic-noise-from-a-wheel/
Share on other sites

Open all the windows and do some hard cornering (not so fast that you can't hear from wind noise) to load up the wheels and suspension on each side to try and isolate which corner the noise is coming from.

A stone stuck in the tread? A wheel weight hitting a suspension arm?

I'd check for a stone or a foreign object stuck in the tread.

Or the hand brake may not release sufficiently. I don't know if a 35 has a drum hand brake like the S1.

Edited by 66yostagea

I saw a BF falcon with something similar today.

I helped the owner pull it apart to find the bolts holding the handbrake mechanism had undone themselves and were so far out that they were hitting the back of the wheel studs.

Never would have guessed it till we opened her up......

Apologies for not responding promptly all.

Thank you all for your replies.

In the last few days I have stripped it all back checked every nut bolt split pin rubber and circlip , taken a steel brush to all the tyre treads. Checked in case if the steel straps on the recently changed CV boot became unraveled - nope still there all snug.

Re-adjusted the brake shoes again, checked for play in bearings shafts swaybars and links. Even looked for a wheel weight touching as mentioned above.

Nothing absolutely nothing out of place.

Then this morning on the way to the office fttt ftt ftt ftt - driving me nuts of course , and about 5 km into the trip and it just stopped ........... what the hell.

Anyway spent the last 90 min with the car on stands checked it all again - all looks good.

Went round the block no noise.

This is one weird gremlin that decided to go I guess.

I can only speculate at the moment that cause the wheel bore is bigger than the hub (until my rings arrive) that the new rotors are offcentre when i do up the rear wheel - unlikely as there is nill vibration as per my seat vibration meter :P

I hate noises in cars i.e. squeaky brakes , grinding bearings etc etc basically I cringe whenever I hear a clapped out falcodore drive past so this noise was seriously pissing me off. Glad its gone but not knowing what it was is equally as annoying now.

Thank you all once again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...