Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this one is driving me batty.

2001 M35 141xxx on the clock

Things done so far.

- New rear rotors

- New rear pads

- Adjusted handbrake cable to stop clinking noise

- Replaced inner front drivers cv boot

- No play in bearings at all

- New tyres on the front balanced and aligned all four (rears are at 90%) no flat spots bulges tears or repairs.

- Hub centric rings on the way (car came with aftermarket 18s)

- New front ball joints on the way - boots just started to split.

I have a noise coming from the rear right (possibly front but hard to discern) its rhythmic with the speed of the car once per revolution frequency is directly proportional to speed, sounds like ffft ffft ffft ffft , almost like a nail in the tyre. Really prominent when driving next to a wall or similar.

There is no vibrations no creaks no clunks.

I have stripped each wheel back to the hub and checked and cleaned everything put it together , apart from the balljoints the the hub rings and the Nissan shaft ping when taking off everything looks to be in order.

Can anyone point me in another direction?

Im leaning towards ordering new rear bearings even though there is no noise from them no play no grinding whirring or humming.

Thank you all in advance

Edited by malialipali
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460404-fft-ffft-rythmic-noise-from-a-wheel/
Share on other sites

Open all the windows and do some hard cornering (not so fast that you can't hear from wind noise) to load up the wheels and suspension on each side to try and isolate which corner the noise is coming from.

A stone stuck in the tread? A wheel weight hitting a suspension arm?

I'd check for a stone or a foreign object stuck in the tread.

Or the hand brake may not release sufficiently. I don't know if a 35 has a drum hand brake like the S1.

Edited by 66yostagea

I saw a BF falcon with something similar today.

I helped the owner pull it apart to find the bolts holding the handbrake mechanism had undone themselves and were so far out that they were hitting the back of the wheel studs.

Never would have guessed it till we opened her up......

Apologies for not responding promptly all.

Thank you all for your replies.

In the last few days I have stripped it all back checked every nut bolt split pin rubber and circlip , taken a steel brush to all the tyre treads. Checked in case if the steel straps on the recently changed CV boot became unraveled - nope still there all snug.

Re-adjusted the brake shoes again, checked for play in bearings shafts swaybars and links. Even looked for a wheel weight touching as mentioned above.

Nothing absolutely nothing out of place.

Then this morning on the way to the office fttt ftt ftt ftt - driving me nuts of course , and about 5 km into the trip and it just stopped ........... what the hell.

Anyway spent the last 90 min with the car on stands checked it all again - all looks good.

Went round the block no noise.

This is one weird gremlin that decided to go I guess.

I can only speculate at the moment that cause the wheel bore is bigger than the hub (until my rings arrive) that the new rotors are offcentre when i do up the rear wheel - unlikely as there is nill vibration as per my seat vibration meter :P

I hate noises in cars i.e. squeaky brakes , grinding bearings etc etc basically I cringe whenever I hear a clapped out falcodore drive past so this noise was seriously pissing me off. Glad its gone but not knowing what it was is equally as annoying now.

Thank you all once again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...