Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have installed my FMIC but unfortunately there was one side-effect I hadn't planned on.

I use the standard air filter box and now a FMIC pipe is blocking its path and the intake from front of bonnet no longer fits.

Now when driving the boost comes on strong at 3500 and hold firm but there is like a soft/flat spot in mid to high revs. in second i seem to only be able to pull 90kms instead of the 100 i used to pull. :P

This soft/flat spot is there in all gears.

I'm hoping that the problem is the air filternow not getting enough cool air.

I was hoping for some clarification on this.

anyway if it is that I will get a pod filter setup w/ partition and make up a feed from the front left bumper as I now have one of the standard intercooler holes free for intake.

Please say this is the problem!!

As i said, it' doesn't seem to be a boost problem. It is boosting to 8 psi and holding firm even through the flat spots.

thanks for any help/opinions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46069-intercooler-install-and-problems/
Share on other sites

two words...

Standard Computer.

The more mods you do, the more airflow the engine gets, the bigger that flat spot gets.

You can see it on a dyno graph. It's where the AFR plummets from about 12:1 down to 10:1

[ Yeah great, I've got the same problem... put in a FM cooler with 63mm pipes put a free flowing gtr finer air filter in with extra breather pipe into the stock air box, and upgraded the exhaust by putting free flow resonators in and I started getting this flat spot around the same speed. Havent set up my new boost controller yet so its still running stock psi of 6 or 7. What did you fit to fixe the problem??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering.  In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask,  how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ???      
    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
×
×
  • Create New...