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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
On the hot side pipe work, or if you want to compensate for pressure loss from the IC, post intercooler on the cold side, pre-throttle -
They're notoriously difficult if you traverse forums... the 102TB and FAST102 are so bad that most people actively don't buy it unless they REALLY want that extra 1hp. The idle stuff isn't really that hard. The cam is pretty manageable and while it acts like a larger cam the whole car actually drives smoother than before. I like to just tinker so if I can get 50rpm less variance or rule out situations where it does 'unexpected' things it's fun for me. HOWEVER If you just let a tuner give it a guess for a couple of hours and had no way/desire to test and tweak it yourself you'd spend a lot of money at the tuner or be pretty frustrated, that's for sure. But yeah. Drives great. (then I drive partner's Civic Type R and I think.. well, more tweaking to do) But for what it is (cam, TB, intake, manual etc) it does commute around really great once you figure out how the idle tables and GM's systems intend to work. -
I usually source pressure on inlet manifold after throttle body -
Where is the best location for boost pressure source when running mac 3port boost solenoid? my new turbo does not have a fitting for that on the compressor housing. how come Garrett make a turbo without that? im confused -
From my memory, which isn't that great, we did have issues getting the large throttle body on my old LS1 to play nicely at idle, first it would stall, then it would only idle at 2k rpm, then it would hang at 2k rpm for a few seconds and then drop and stall, then, finally, the best we got was it would hang at 1.5k rpm for a few seconds then drop to around 800 rpm The tuner stated that large cable throttle bodies are a PITA, and if I wanted anything better than what we ended up with I would need a electronic throttle body and all of the aftermarket ECU stuff to run it
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