Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just plumbed up and wired in a boost gauge so I could actually see what's going on. At the moment it's just squeezed into the top glove box.

Just wanting to see where everyone else has mounted theirs!

Edited by Bmx537

How the f**k are they visible to the driver at full throttle?

Ubless of course car is heaps slow

you look at your gauges the whole time when at wot? i only ever look when i feel like something is wrong.

gauges are tuning tools or used as a tool on the track to check temps or pressure.

oh look 20psi.... oh wow it's still 20psi years later...

I should have said not my car, just liked the pic.

Not the safest to be looking at your glovebox area when driving.

You'd want your gauges front and centre in a race car but I like the sleeper look and just open the lid for test and tune on a back road in a street car.

That gauge set up pictured above is in my car now, the gauges are actually quite visible, can catch them with out of the corner of your eye well enough to see whats going on.

Cant tell you oil temp/pressure accuratly when im booting it around, but can see enough thay if somethings not going right I can shut it down no worries.

Boost, trans temp, and everything on the HKSOB link are well within normal viewing range.

Plus its sleeper as f**k and I enjoy it.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...