Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

Project:

Manual conversion of S14 (that got out of hand)

SPEC

Motor: Stock RB25 NEO

Injectors: TBC 100cc

Pump: walbro 450

Turbo: Gtx3076R

Exhaust: 3" with unknown sports cat

Manifold: 6Boost Top Mount T3 Divided single gate

Power Goal:

Ideally 288kw to 300kw not fussy as I want to drive the car

Garret have a shortage of .86/AR exhaust housings which is what iv seen used on the build threads here and in the dyno section.

I ideally want a derivable daily car and I get it the turbo might be a bit big and prob should have looked at a gtx3071 on a stock bottom end NEO.

So here is the question. Will I get away with a divided .78Ar housing at 288- 300kw mark?

Should I order it and shut up?

Should I stick an open .63 on it and have a very expensive open manifold while i wait for a .86?

I Searched:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Projects

AngryRB

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426934-angryrbs-r33-street-sweeper/?view=findpost&p=6906326&hl=%2Bgtx3076-- Went with another turbo in the end

DiscoPotatos Gt3076

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440226-gt3076r-antics-better-late-than-never/?view=findpost&p=7223471&hl=%2Bgtx3076

Sort of relevant:

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb-tech/105515-550rwhp-rb25det-my-build-88.html

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&mid=24715

You are probably looking at a Garrett vs ATP housing. There may be a difference in the quality of the casting. What is the difference in price?

To have any hope of the hotside keeping up flow wise with the GTX compressor, you'd probably want the bigger turbine A/R. I'd suggest the 0.78 might choke a little early. RB engines respond well to a decent flow capacity through the turbine.

Also, if you have reasonable access to E85, get onto that.

I ordered the .78 if it chokes it chokes and Ill get a bigger housing if i need to.

its 850$ vs 300$

So when the .86 genuine Garrett comes back in stock it should be more reasonable.

I'm starting to feel like.

I 62319051.jpg

Edited by PatMol

Even the .82 divided chokes the top end, I think a 1.06 would be better personally. If you want better response you should select a smaller turbo not choke a larger one imo. I have seen a GTX3076 run 400kw on e85 in Gregs auto 34 GTT recently, before his head lifted.

Here is a 0.82 split pulse twin gate 6boost setup I did a while back. The results are in the RB25 dyno thread under Owenliberts, I think he posted a few running 98 and e85.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-43

post-63525-0-16006800-1447979430_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...