Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Team,

I'm trying to eek out the most from my set of Hankook soft 221's. I'm hoping to get one more trackday out of them....

They have done 3 track days... 2 of them wet. (in the last 9 months or so)

I have another coming up on the 17th Dec at the my usual track, Wakefield.

Now the question is what would you run on the front and back? As you can see they are marked for RF LF RR LR.

The Rears are very low and the fronts have started to melt.

Should I keep running the fronts where is, to make the most of the grip for turning or put them on the back and get drive?

Seems obvious that I put the ones with the most tread on the back, but Wakefield is such a tight turning track.

They are on an R33 GTR.

Thoughts?

20151119_150342_zpsgp8aeq27.jpg

20151119_150348_zpshaggayrs.jpg

20151119_150352_zpsrlbzckdo.jpg

20151119_150404_zpsdqq0zwr1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461149-semi-slicks-what-would-you-do/
Share on other sites

haha I think the opposite....if you take softs to a track day at wakefield in December you will destroy them. probably in the first session. so it doesn't matter which one goes on which corner :P

keep those for hillclimbs or super sprints, and go and buy a set of medium or hard tyres instead.

  • Like 1

Hankook Z221 softs (C70) are like Yokohama A050 Mediums. Maybe a fraction softer, but not alot.

I've done a hillclimb, 2 Lakeside days (1 over 30 degrees ambient), 2 days at Morgan Park in 33 degree heat and 1 day at Phillip Island on a 1530kg Soarer. Tyres are about half worn except for the outer edges. I was planning on flipping them on the wheels to maximise their life, but I think the rear tyres may have gone off now - I had no rear grip at the last track day and it got worse with each lap... I should have changed them front to back to see if the problem moved with the tyres, but CBF. It was too hot

A couple of mates who run Hankooks have had the same thing happen - they go off before they wear out.

Edited by hrd-hr30

Good to hear, I haven't used them myself, I was just going off my experience with other soft tyres

In that case, bang them on any corner, have fun until lunch, then check them for rotation for the afternoon. I'd always put the best tyres on the most loaded point which is front left at wakie....you can always control the amount of rear wheel work with your foot....

  • Like 1

yeah, but if you don't know what they're like brand new, you can't really say they're consistent down to the belts. Mine ran effortless 59s brand new. Now at about 50%, 1:01.2 was all I could do. Might be why that bloke was selling his... They're still faster than Nittos, but nothing like what they were new.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...