Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Just registered but have been reading here since I got my stag 2.5yrs ago.

Long story short over the last year I believe te bank 1 VVT cam sprocket has been on its way out. Replaced VVT solenoid with no success. Intermittent rough idle and lack of power. Throwing code p0011? Through the obd port and an app I can see the timing 'sticking'. After a lot of research, I'm 99% sure the cam sprocket is toast. No way to tell without opening it up. Nissan blaming the cam sensors.

Anyway, the repair bill for this will be huge. Apparently 20+ hours, even through amayama the sprocket alone is close to 1k. This job is not something I would tackle myself. I'm starting to consider replacing the engine completely, myself.

Question is, can I use a vq35de from a 350z or v35 skyline? I assume so but don't want to find out I can't the hard way.

Also considering the vq25det, depending on what's involved.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461660-vq35-replacement/
Share on other sites

Yes, same motor.

But a couple of points, the 350z had a rev up motor and later a vq35hr in it, so you need the motor out of the first models. V35s only got the basic model of motor.

If you car is AWD, you'll need to swap over the bits relevant.

Not a simple job, but do able.

I'd be very tempted to buy a whole set of crank angle, and the two cam angle sensors first however.

ok sweet. I was aware of the hr and rev-up models, just making sure a regular vq35de would work.

Mine is actually a PM35, so RWD. Would this make it as simple as dropping the old and in with the new?

I have a couple of theories to doubt it being the sensors,

I never had a CEL come on. Only pending codes when I checked with a scanner. I bought 1 of those cheap bluetooth OBDII adapters and used that with an android app called Car Gauge Pro. Through this i can watch the duty cycle of the VTC solenoids as well as the timing advance from the cam sensors. When everything is working normally you can see the timing advance/retard in relation to the cam sensor readings. When it craps out (obvious lack of torque through the mid range) you can see the duty cycle of the affected bank either drop right out (if the timing is stuck advanced, ie its trying to pull it back) or if its not advancing as it should, the duty cycle increase alot higher, higher than it ever does when its running fine. If I keep driving for a while and it sticks the whole time the ECU shots off the VTC function all together, until I restart.

I hope that makes sense, but from what I gather, electrically everything seems to run just fine. Mechanically the only 2 things that can cause this are the VTC solenoid and the sprocket itself.

For the past 3 months while I've been working out what to do I've unplugged the VTC solenoids. The car just runs with no VVT now and CEL on, can you say GUTLESS! lol.

Oh and thanks for the fast response! I hope i'm wrong though...

Edited by nzM35

Yeah, easier as a rwd.

Good luck with it all. If you haven't at least tried crank/cam sensors, it's a whole heap easier and cheaper than a motor change! You can always keep em as spares if they don't fix it and you replace the motor.

oh I forgot to mention the other reason I believe its the sprocket,

A few months before all this started happening I had an oil change done. About a month after that, when starting the car in the morning the idle would fluctuate for a few seconds and then return to normal. It did this fora 3 weeks until I checked the oil level on level ground at the servo. Found it was low (at the low mark exactly) and topped it up. That problem then disappeared. From my research, low oil can cause the sprockets to crap out. :facepalm: shudda checked the oil sooner!

Where are you ? I can recommend a couple of shops (not Nissan) that could have a look at it for you . If you do decide on a new engine there are quite a few PM35s wrecking.

I'm in Chch. The more I think about it the more it makes sense to repair it. Sure could do with a trustworthy mechanic

All you need is a good second hand cam advance mechanism, it isn't that hard to change. They are usually very reliable.

Yea, I've been thinking about it lately and think it makes more sense to repair.

Are you referring to the sprocket or the solenoid? I've already done the solenoid, new oem.

How hard is it to change the sprocket? As far as I know, once I get the timing cover off its basically a timing chain change doing the sprocket while there. That's where my balls drop. Never messed with cam belts or chains.

Pretty easy to change the sprocket seeing you have access to an english manual.

No need to change what isn't broken. Chains can last a lifetime if they are suitably lubricated, in other words if the oil has been changed regularly. I would be replacing the tensioner guide at least though.

OK cheers Scotty. You answered my next question on replacing the chain and tensioner. Looks like I'll be giving it a crack in the new year. Thanks for the help!

Sorry meant to get back to you earlier. Dan in the parts department at Cockram Nissan is a Skylines Down Under member and has been good at getting hard to get parts for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...