Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pressure Sensor Install

Rufus007
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So i have installed the adapter plate and pressure sensor. Haven't installed the gauge inside the cabin yet - but I did hook it up temporarily to check oil pressure. Minimum spec is 14psi @ idle, and 43psi @ 2000rpm. Mine read 20psi @ idle and 55psi @ 2000rpm so all good :thumbsup:

Hmmm can't find how to post a pic now....weird because I did in the first post?

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

No probs, it took some effort to find the right parts (and a good price) so this could save others some time.

The sandwich adapter:

http://www.shadowmotor.com.tw/en/product/Honda-R18A-K24A/SW40020.htmlthese guys referred me to:

http://shiftperformance.com.au/to purchase from. Its not listed on shiftperformance website so will need to email them. $64 delivered

This was the difficult part to find as most sandwich adapters are to large for our stock oil filters.

Koso mini 3 oil pressure:

http://japan.webike.net/products/21345818.html

All parts included. About $130 delivered. Most other places advertise this around the $260 mark. Also has adjustable low pressure warning.

The stock oil pressure switch for VQ35hr/VQ37vhr apparently only activates at around 5psi - far to low and has probably already caused damage by this stage.

All up pretty cheap insurance to monitor engine health

Edited by Rufus007
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

For me its just double insurance against any internal gasket failure..Oil pressure is critical for any engine. Even my dirty ol VE Holden V6 had a proper oil pressure sensor from factory which anyone can read from an OBDII device.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/99607-zed-owners-must-read-p0011-p0021-caused-by-oil-gallery-gaskets/

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/92590-hr-potential-oil-pressure-problem/page__st__40

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes that's right it's supposed to supplement the factory one. Could probably install the new sensor in place of the switch but I'm not sure how the computer would respond.

The 350z and 370z have guages from factory but the v35 and v37 missed out on this

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Yes that's right it's supposed to supplement the factory one. Could probably install the new sensor in place of the switch but I'm not sure how the computer would respond.

That's easy to answer. It's just a switch, not a variable output sensor. The computer won't respond any differently.

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Do you think replacing the switch with a sensor and running the gauge from there would be a better option. Is there any downside to this method or is it just better all round by not having to use a sandwich plate?

Edited by Rufus007
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ah, so you're not putting in an adjustable switch in that sandwich plate, it's an actual variable sensor for a gauge? Sorry, I didn't take a look at the photo until now. Please ignore EVERYTHING I've said earlier.

In that case, you can't replace the stock one with that. A switch has two functions - on and off. Your sensor, on the other hand, actually gives you a reading of the pressure.

Stick to your original plan with the sandwich plate then. Regardless, oil pressure is oil pressure so wherever you tap into the system, you will have the same pressure readings. In my Nissan Maxima, I had the pressure switch and pressure sensor both working off the same point on the engine block using a VDO brass t-piece adaptor just because I had the clearance and it was convenient. I haven't taken a good look at the VQ block to see where the pressure switch is to determine the best course of action.

The smartest thing you did though was going electric instead of mechanical. That nylon line can fail and if it doesn't spew forth oil in your car's interior, you will definitely lose oil either way. Not good when you're away from home.

Edited by The Max
Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good Max, not a problem at all. Yes I put in a sensor opposed to a switch so I could get a digital readout on engine 'health' for the lack of a better word. I only asked a few questions to find out what the frig you were talking about lol.

Merry NisMas all

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

I'm glad you did because I'm clearly a spastic. Sorry dude. That'll teach me not to look at things in absolute detail!

I read about the oil issues when I was looking into buying mine. I figure at 39,000km, I don't have much to worry about right now but at some point, I plan to put a sexy little Autometer Cobalt series unit in - either in the cup holder of the centre console or hidden under the ashtray panel, just exposing the display itself rather than the whole 2-1/16" dial. In which case, that adapter you've shown is a wise choice. The only thing that concerns me a little is whether or not you would need to keep a spare o-ring about, just in case if you end up unscrewing the adapter as you unscrew the filter during an oil change.

What are your thoughts on this, just from your observations so far?

Rufus007 Enthusiast

Rufus007

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good man we are all on the same team here.

The koso mini guage fits into the ashtray well and I'll be able to close it flush when I eventually get around to a permanent install.

I prefer dial type (still digital tho) guages as they don't jump around as much as digital numbers, but hidden neatly in the ashtray is perfect.

I doubt an extra o ring is needed - I torqued the adapter down to 35Nm. Its a good solid oring also. Mishimoto specs their adapter at 47Nm. Oil filters are approx 10Nm. So far no leaks at all and I did use tape on the sensor thread also.

I imported with 47000km so not expecting probs anytime soon, I'm just a bit proactive like that. Its a small percentage of cars that problem happens to, and I bet good maintenance will help. I also think not flogging cold engines and sending oil pressures sky high would be a good idea.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Heh. Remote start to get it to 900RPM before driving off is a good start for me. By that stage, we're warm enough.

Good move with the teflon tape too. I use teflon paste but same deal really.

Post pics when it's all done and in action. This is a mighty fine idea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...