Jump to content
SAU Community

My Engine is Missing! :eek:

AzzurrA

By AzzurrA,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

I better start at the start, incase any of the information is useful

I Bought myself a '92 R32 GTS-t last wednesday, with 155500km on it (appear genuine). It had a Turbosmart V-port BOV, a Really Dirty K&N Pod Filter, some form of 3" Catback exhaust.

Wednesday night, i took it for a drive on the highway, and i noticed that above 4000rpm it was 'missing', i.e. a cylinder wouldn't fire, but other than that, the car seemed to run fine.

I took it for a service today, and put new Motul 4100 Turbolight oil, new Oil Filter, and NGK BCPR6ES plugs. While they were off, we tested all the coilpacks and they all tested at around '1' resistance.

The plugs that were in there were a mix and match of all sorts, completely wrong heat range etc etc.

Anyway, after i left the service, i noticed there was now a miss at idle, only slightly, and only very occasionally, it just wouldn't fire a single cylinder.

Went out to willowbank for the day (spectating at the sprints) and on the way out, it still had the miss above 4000rpm.

On leaving, i gave it a bit of a squirt on the highway and the miss above 4000rpm was 'semi' gone... like, it feels nowhere near as bad as it used to, but it still doesn't feel 'right'... and general running seems a tiny bit rougher than it used to be. Idle also has a slight miss in it still.

I guess the question is, what are your opinions as to what could be causing the problems?

Oh, and i also am resetting my ECU tonight to see if it is something that it has learnt along the way.

Any ideas/help would be great... thanks

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46236-my-engine-is-missing-eek/
Share on other sites
AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
  • Author
Posted
was the miss there when you test drove it before you bought it?

I didn't notice it when i test-drove it, but then again, i didn't really rev it over 4000rpm when i test-drove it either.

I reset the ECU last night, and this morning its still missing slightly at idle, but the miss above 4000rpm seems ALMOST completely gone

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

As you've checked the coils i'd reset the ecu and then go for a drive and then check the error codes as it's free and easy. Then start swapping things, possibly coils, ignitor, afm crank angle sensor.

As a how to: disconnect battery, turn on ignition and hold down brake pedal for about a minute to make sure there is no chage left in the system. Reconnect the battery. This will have removed any fault codes from the ecu memory so if you check now it will read 55 (all clear)

Take the car for a drive around the block (10minutes or so just to make sure everything is up to temp)

access the ecu in the passenger foot well and on the bottom of it there is a little knob with a flat head screwdriver slot in it. turn on the ignition but dont start the car. Turn the knob fully clockwise (i think) and leave it there for 5 secs or so, then turn it back full the other way. You are now in diagnostic mode. Slow flashes of the led next to the knob are 10s (10,20,30..) and fast flashes are 1s. It also flashes the exhaust temp warning light on the dash.

error codes here (Thanks Skyline_boy)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733

hopefully this can give some direction in what to look at. I am currently experiencing something similar but have not yet solved it but have swapped pretty much every major component with a signal to the ecu that varies significantly with revs and gotten to the point now where i'm looking at the ignition loom.

Let us know how you go as it all adds to the knowledge base of the forum.

Good luck

Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...