Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I did a bit of searching around but couldn't find specific answers for this;

What would be a more suitable oil in a stockish R34 GTT - Royal Purple HPS or their new XPR oil?

It seems the XPR is a on up from the HPS, specifically for performance racing, does that mean it would not be suitable for a daily jap turbo?

This is what their website has to say; (useless)

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/right-synthetic-oil/

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462838-royal-purple-hps-or-xpr/
Share on other sites

I use hps 10w 40 In my turbo territory as its supposed to be the more daily driven oil choice with more detergents than the xpr which has higher zinc and less detergents but has a boiling point of up to 400degc from what I read from there data sheet. Both are at least a group 4 which is the more important factor here I reckon.

The ultra high performance oils (XPR, Motul 300V competion, Redline Race series) are very good in terms of dealing with high heat, high strain conditions

however this is only 1 of a 3 part equation - the are;

1. Heat tolerance - pure performance

2. Cleaners, detergents and additives - ongoing engine maintenance / protection for cold starts

3. Oil longevity (suitability for longer time/km intervals)

You have to remember racing cars differ to street cars in the fact that they;

- oil is constantly changed out every event - meaning it does not require a complex detergent/additive package to clean the bearings etc.

- constant changing also means the oil does not need to last very long time/kms wise

So the reality is the best oil for track is not the best oil for street

What you will need to settle for is an oil with a moderate heat/sheer tolerance, but also have a detergent package + resistance to acidity to last and clean over a 5000, 10,000 or 15,000km interval

If you still wanted to spend upwards of $80 my picks would be Redline (normal series) 10W40, Motul 8100 Xcess or Amsoil 10w40 (Motul and Redline are available at most Autobarns)

Good options under $50 are Penrite HPR10 (when on sale), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000, Castrol Edge 0/10w40, Valvoline SynPower 5w40

An great medium is the Gulf Western Syn X 6000 if you can find them in Autobarn, or buy direct - they are very close to your full Group V(5) ester based oils like Amsoil, Redline, Motul 300V, but at a fraction of the cost, around $50-60 i believe

Hope that helps, everyone wants the best for their ride, just need to adjust your understanding of oils to make a more informed decision

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
    • @Rusty NutshI mate. Do you have a pinout diagram for the na neo auto ecu? 
    • Yeah thats the plan now. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...