Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok the LCD popup screen has a message "pitstop" .

obd check came up with

bank 1, knock sensor.

It only has 1 knock sensor so it cant be the knock sensor, given bank 1 only problem!.

O2 sensors,, I swapped em sides, fault stayed on bank 1, so they should be ok.

The A/F sensors look hard to get at, and possibly need a special spanner?.

Anyone ever removed these A/F sensors, How hard ??

Coil packs, manual test procedure looks to be very hit and miss???.

And injectors need the plenum removed , last resort job there!!.

Anyone have any input, ideas to solve this issue ?

Note.

O2 = middle of cat converter sensor

A/F = above cat converter.

Pitstop doesn't mean anything.

It's just a resettable oil / filter / wheel kilometre counter. Doesn't mean there is an engine code.

Knock sensor I wouldn't worry about it the car is driving fine. Check the wires to it are intact, have been cases of mice eating the wiring in there.

Reset the fault code, and see if any check engine lights come on.

  • Like 1

The pitstop message has been cleared 4 times now & won't go away.

Seems to be more than a maintenance related problem, thanks for the input.

simply putting it out there to see if anyone else had struck a similar issue, & or had some pointers for possible cause and or tell tale signs to look at.

More input the better!.

The ecu is leaning the engine off as a result of knock detected.

Edited by nobby

The ecu is leaning the engine off as a result of knock detected.

ECU won't lean the mix if knock is detected.. it retards timing and richens the fuel mix, resulting in poor performance and poor economy.

  • Like 2

Thanks for that, I have been away for a while since the obd unit was connected.

So I can't remember the data , the $3k OBD device my mate owns, he told me it was leaning off.

sonicii, on 15 Feb 2016 - 10:50 AM, said:

ECU won't lean the mix if knock is detected.. it retards timing and richens the fuel mix, resulting in poor performance and poor economy.

Perhaps the engine is knocking because there is low fuel pressure, due to a blocked fuel filter? If it detects crazy knock it may throw a code...

I haven't looked at this yet, will soon. thanks.

Well, that's the reason your pitstop message isn't going away. It has nothing to do with the obd port/reader/whatever.

You need to go through the menus and reset the service reminders. I take it you don't have the English conversion??

  • Like 3

Well, that's the reason your pitstop message isn't going away. It has nothing to do with the obd port/reader/whatever.

You need to go through the menus and reset the service reminders. I take it you don't have the English conversion??

spot on!!!
  • Like 1

Well, that's the reason your pitstop message isn't going away. It has nothing to do with the obd port/reader/whatever.

You need to go through the menus and reset the service reminders. I take it you don't have the English conversion??

Ok thanks for that, No I don't have english conversion for lcd screen.

Are you able to walk us through the steps any way??

Soon as I finish typing I going to reset mil manually and see what happens.

Mil is throwing 2 codes.

knock and throttle control relay.

The autel unit only picked up on knock code, but the relay code may be new as it recently had a flat battery, and low power may of caused it, fingers crossed,

And have a look at jap menu see " If" I can work it out anyway lol.

Thanks for the help gents.

There is no throttle control relay. I suspect the Autel is having issues reading Japanese. :P

Sounds like it would be easier to find a mechanic that knows these engines, shame you are too far away for me to help, but I suspect the front wideband O2 sensor is buggered or an injector is blocked.

  • Like 1

There is no throttle control relay. I suspect the Autel is having issues reading Japanese. :P

Sounds like it would be easier to find a mechanic that knows these engines, shame you are too far away for me to help, but I suspect the front wideband O2 sensor is buggered or an injector is blocked.

Thanks scott, take it the "front" wide band is the top a/f sensor?.

Blocked injector was my first thought but pita to get at, hence putting it out there for another opinion.

Humm no relay, wiring diagram is showing one in section PG page25, but not identical box layout to whats in my car.

wiring dia show 15amp fuse and relay then throttle motor. so this is why I was looking at this.

but to be honest it didn't make much sense about a faulty relay the car drives and not bad at that, and fair mileage about 10/100k.

would of thought if a power relay for throttle was faulty it plain wouldn't of started & or run very badly etc.

Edited by nobby

Ok pit stop has been cleared.

noticed when pitstop message appears -- then I pressed enter nav button, it was cycling between 2 messages top left of screen.

then I noticed in information page a similar messages.

press nav enter again.

a page appears with 4 slide scales on it.

the slides when you press nav enter again can be reset to zero by nav toggle left and enter.

then Itoggled down to next slide scale and continue to reset again.

I reset all 4 scales to zero.

started engine and pit message gone.

Now I am laughing.

But it wouldn't of happened without the input from others, Thankyou

Edited by nobby

F####### now it's gone into limp mode.

And I can't seem to access mil by tapping the go pedal,( in a bit of a bind 1 may say).

guessing go pedal sensor is at fault this time.

lucky! I was about 1k from home when it happened, 1kph max for the trip back.

max revs were about 1200, and then couldn't get up the drive way.

ahhhhhhh

Edited by nobby

You can usually get a little more acceleration if you push the pedal to the floor, but only a little. Turning the ignition off and on can reset the fault, I had to do that while driving down the freeway a few times when using dodgy pedals sensors.

Been in limp mode too many times to remember. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...