Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I've been having some issues with my 07 V36 350GT Sedan for awhile now. The issues are on and off but now its present every day and it's starting to annoy the shit out of me.

1) At cold start / first drive for the day, when driven, the car would stutter (where RPM fluctuates and you can feel the car bucking). This issue is now present every time I drive if the car has been left to cool down. Initially I thought it was a vacuum issue but found no vacuum leaks.

There were talks about transmission issues and even engine oil issues in 350/370z forums but I am not sure if this is it.

2) Lately when I start the car, cranking it talking longer, some days it tries to crank, while rpm is v low it starts popping a few times. Stepping on the accelerator tends to get the crank going.

This lead me to think it's fuel pump, injector or coil packs not working properly.

I get no error codes whatsoever and am at my wits end. My mechanic said maybe try replacing the fuel pump first and go from there. OEM pumps looks to cost around $650 and up. Not sure if I'm looking at the right thing.

Would love some opinion re the issues but also opinions on if I should get OEM fuel pumps or look at after market ones?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463132-fuel-pump-injector-coil-pack-issues/
Share on other sites

Might be a bit of a long shot, but have you been able to monitor the battery voltage from a cold start?

I had an issue on my wife's J31 Maxima a few years back where it would be hard to start sometimes and then splutter for the first 5sec or so after firing. After that it ran fine.

Turned out the battery voltage was low due to a lot of short trips (wife works about 3km from home), and it wouldn't run properly until the engine RPM was high enough to allow the alternator to supply the correct voltage. After taking the car for a long drive, it would be fine for a few weeks.

We just make sure it gets a reasonable drive on the weekends now and it hasn't been an issue since.

Also explains why the car eats batteries every 2 years or so.

Edited by sonicii

Hmm, I did think of that, since initially the first issue did not happen all the time but I do about 350km to 400kms per week with half of that done on the weekend. I will check again on this though. Thanks for the suggestion....keep em coming!

For the first point in the OP, it only happens in first few min of driving.

Edited by colin.ssc

To stop the engine stuttering with a cold engine, try running Castrol Edge 0w40 oil. Worked 100% for me! (I had engine stuttering with both Castrol Edge 5w40 and Mobile 1 0w40 - the only other oils I have used in the vq35hr) The theory has something to do with oil density switching the VVT on just a bit to early ie during the 2-3 minute warm up mark. These engines aren't supposed to use VVT until xxx operating temperature, and are apparently fussy on oil choice. I personally also recommend OEM filters (get them from Nissan for the 350/370z) to ensure flow rates and relief valve pressures are correct.

Anyway there is a massive mamojam thread over here:

http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/307878-sputtering-during-warm-up-32.html

As for your slow engine cranking - I'd think battery first and starter motor second.

I'd like to hear what works out for you eventually!

Edited by Rufus007

Thanks, will give that a try and battery! Will update as I go.

Be sure to do one at a time so you know what fixed it.

And if you need a new pump forget about the OEM unit you can get a better one cheaper from Scotty:

  • Like 2

Could be the pump or fuel filter, but more likely the spark plugs, or just water in the IPDM, that's where I would start.

Faults like this can get expensive if a mechanic is involved, especially if he hasn't worked on VQ's much.

Could be the pump or fuel filter, but more likely the spark plugs, or just water in the IPDM, that's where I would start.

Faults like this can get expensive if a mechanic is involved, especially if he hasn't worked on VQ's much.

How do we treat for water in IPDM? And can you PM me re fuel pumps or filters? Heard you make em?

This comment is spot on - change one thing at a time. I'd still like to know what works for you in the end, mostly because I once had the same issue from your description (sorted now though).

<p>

Be sure to do one at a time so you know what fixed it.

And if you need a new pump forget about the OEM unit you can get a better one cheaper from Scotty:

That looks very mild. Mine is alot worse. 0w30 indeed helps, stuttering nearly gone but still a little. I guess maybe it is the VTC issue? Will do more testing over the months (when I find more time).

Ordered a fuel pump from Scotty, hopefully that solves the cranking issues.

When it gets bad, it's very very bad, like something is breaking, so yes I will look into it. I've read that thread before just never bothered and thought about it too much / didnt think that was the issue as the VTC's don't turn on til it's hot enough...who knows. Annoying AF!

Castrol Edge 0w30

Starting fine as in I had issues at cranking. On the stuttering issue - the stuttering is still there, very mild, quite delayed. I think (just my opinion) that the stuttering is happening on a certain temperature. Because of the 0w, this temp is achieved at a later time and because by that time I am already driving a longer distance without braking or letting off the throttle, I don't experience the stuttering.

Before this service the stuttering can only be felt if and when I accelerate / accelerate after letting to go of throttle (around the estate areas) etc if that makes any sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...