Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes I am aware of those results, the whole reason I bought that turbo was based on advice from 34geeteetee and Lithium. In my original post I actually reference and link to 34geeteetee's thread and you can see my posts in that thread too. So full credit goes to 34geeteetee and Lithium in terms of discovering/recommending that turbo. 

Like I said, the first thing on my list of things to do with the car is get the boost leak fixed, but I have not been in a huge rush as until I get the alignment fixed up and fit better tyres I cannot put the power down anyway. All these things require me to spend more money on the car and will come in time as my focus has largely been on other things for the past few months.

Without the boost leak it may spool up quicker as boost won't be escaping. Will it spool up as quick as 34geeteetee's set up? Who knows. From memory he had a much newer/more advanced ECU which may have helped him. He also had a flex fuel sensor which might mean they could lean on it harder as it will detect exactly what ethanol content the fuel is. From memory he also had a plazmaman plenum and throttle body, although from what I have read this is unlikely to make the difference. My point is that there has been lots of time and $$$ spent on his car getting it to that level. With mine a lot of the parts such as the ECU, intercooler, exhaust, boost controller etc have been carried over from the previous owner's 250rwkw set up.

So the purpose of me replying to this thread was not to say that the setup I have is the be all and end all, but just to show a direct comparison from the old garret with tuneagent manifold to the HTA twin scroll. The new turbo set up has made a massive difference but there are obviously more changes that could further optimize the set up, as we know it won't hold boost and the turbo should be more than capable.

I was just driving the car as is, however re posting in this thread has peaked my curiosity again, so I will try and fix the boost leak issue once and for all and get it dynoed again maybe some time in October.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Yes I am aware of those results, the whole reason I bought that turbo was based on advice from 34geeteetee and Lithium. In my original post I actually reference and link to 34geeteetee's thread and you can see my posts in that thread too. So full credit goes to 34geeteetee and Lithium in terms of discovering/recommending that turbo. 

Like I said, the first thing on my list of things to do with the car is get the boost leak fixed, but I have not been in a huge rush as until I get the alignment fixed up and fit better tyres I cannot put the power down anyway. All these things require me to spend more money on the car and will come in time as my focus has largely been on other things for the past few months.

Without the boost leak it may spool up quicker as boost won't be escaping. Will it spool up as quick as 34geeteetee's set up? Who knows. From memory he had a much newer/more advanced ECU which may have helped him. He also had a flex fuel sensor which might mean they could lean on it harder as it will detect exactly what ethanol content the fuel is. From memory he also had a plazmaman plenum and throttle body, although from what I have read this is unlikely to make the difference. My point is that there has been lots of time and $$$ spent on his car getting it to that level. With mine a lot of the parts such as the ECU, intercooler, exhaust, boost controller etc have been carried over from the previous owner's 250rwkw set up.

So the purpose of me replying to this thread was not to say that the setup I have is the be all and end all, but just to show a direct comparison from the old garret with tuneagent manifold to the HTA twin scroll. The new turbo set up has made a massive difference but there are obviously more changes that could further optimize the set up, as we know it won't hold boost and the turbo should be more than capable.

I was just driving the car as is, however re posting in this thread has peaked my curiosity again, so I will try and fix the boost leak issue once and for all and get it dynoed again maybe some time in October.

 

 

 

 

Sorry for any offence man, there was none intended...

I'm extremely interested in your results a whole lot more so than others as I'm also putting a twin scroll rear housing onto a hta3076 on an rb25 and I'm having a very hard time choosing between the .83 & 1.01 a/r twin scroll housings...

It seems your the only person to have actually done it so far on an rb25 and posted real results about it so I'm getting a little carried away with myself about what the possible issue could be in your setup... It's all very exciting indeed haha

IMO First things first, instead of finding the "boost leak" you need to work out if the problem is actually a boost leak or a restriction or both or neither or shit intercooler or something else...

Are you running a cat? And what boost control do you use?

21 hours ago, LaurelPWR said:

Sorry for any offence man, there was none intended...

 

Hey, no offence taken. Just acknowledging that yes there is room for improvement on my set up and also that R34Geeteetee and Lithium were the ones to discover the potential of these HTA turbos on RB25s.

3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

" he had a much newer/more advanced ECU which may have helped him "

That won't help spool, unless you're setting up anti-lag for launching on boost.

Hmm ok. When I was at the workshop that tuned the car about 12 months ago before the HTA turbo went on, they mentioned some feature or other in the newer ECUs (Link/Vipec I think) which potentially helped to bring the car on boost sooner. I can't remember what it was, but it was not anti-lag. Maybe that is not the case. If anyone has any ideas as to why it does not spool as quick as R34Geeteetee's then I am all ears. First thing will be to try and find out why it won't hold boost.

 

 

What fmic are you using? I didn't see.

Also there are ways to get the turbo on earlier like pulling timing out as it comes onto boost.

If you had anything else I could help but I no longer have the dinosaur fc logit kit.

27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What fmic are you using? I didn't see.

Also there are ways to get the turbo on earlier like pulling timing out as it comes onto boost.

If you had anything else I could help but I no longer have the dinosaur fc logit kit.

The intercooler was on the car when I got it, but just had a look and it is a hybrid intercooler. It measures 600*300 so guessing it could be a hybrid gt2.

Hmm ok. When I was at the workshop that tuned the car about 12 months ago before the HTA turbo went on, they mentioned some feature or other in the newer ECUs (Link/Vipec I think) which potentially helped to bring the car on boost sooner. I can't remember what it was, but it was not anti-lag. Maybe that is not the case. If anyone has any ideas as to why it does not spool as quick as R34Geeteetee's then I am all ears. First thing will be to try and find out why it won't hold boost.

 

 

What type of boost controller are you running?

What's your exhaust system? Cats?

After I upgraded to a HKS gt-Rs, I was on the dyno converting my car to e85 and I looked at my curve vs some other gt-Rs results I had seen and I was underwhelmed in its response and ability to hold boost.... (Was using a blitz duel SBC for boost control at the time)

SO, while on the dyno we measured back pressure directly behind the turbo in the o2 port and found it had 4psi of back pressure @ 20psi of boost.

The steps I then took in the following months:
I installed a turbosmart eboost2, deleted the 100cell "highflow" cat and upgraded my standard oem manifold to a HPI manifold.
Then a re-tune! We picked up around 800-900rpm+ in boost response which resulted in more power earlier for a fatter midrange... There's a dyno below showing before and after.

The BLUE line is before the upgrades and the RED line is the final tune after the upgrades. (Ignore the fact that the blue line makes slightly more peak at the top end as that run was only done for the printout to win a bet with a mate... It actually made 393.9whp peak before the upgrades..)

eaac71c83d2d7d5c092165a727dc566e.jpg



All on an rb25 s1, pon cams, Ross forgies, gtr itbs, e85 etc.... HKS turbo had the standard HKS 14psi actuator on it...

Thanks for the tips guys. I will follow up. Will try to get a boost reference after the intercooler and might even try to get a dyno run with the exhaust off and see if that makes any difference and then I will know not only if the cat is creating resistance but the exhaust itself, as I am not sure on the actual model.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Thanks for the tips guys. I will follow up. Will try to get a boost reference after the intercooler and might even try to get a dyno run with the exhaust off and see if that makes any difference and then I will know not only if the cat is creating resistance but the exhaust itself, as I am not sure on the actual model.



Yo man any updates? Hope it's all going well (:
  • 4 weeks later...

I had a look and could not find any boost leak. Took it back to the workshop and they said that there was no boost leak and that boost drops off because it is wheel spinning on the dyno, resulting in less load. They took a pic after the dyno run. I have lost interest a bit in the car to be honest.

r34 r.jpg

I've not seen this thread, hate seeing nightmare stuff like this going on.

So a couple of questions - how does the car actually drive on the road?  Does it feel excessively laggy in the real world?   What kind of rpm does it start building boost at all (ie, start pushing a bit) and when is it "getting serious" in 3rd gear from a low rpm pull?

Next thing, if I read right - you've found that this car has had "lag" issues all the way through?  Like you've change manifold, turbo etc and it's STILL laggy and drops boost hard?

What fuel are you running?  And out of interest, where in the world are you?  A sinco manifold is unusual in Oz I'd have thought.

  • Like 1

Just got my new snail! Hta3076 with a brand new Garrett ni-resistant 1.02 a/r twin scroll rear... 9839ebcaecd3b2c76a2832f792c8aa4c.jpgf1157600bbc3d9a3f7e86999525b33e5.jpg



Can't wait to see what this can do!! Will be a while before it goes on as I need to upgrade my fuel system.... I'm getting a new manifold made while I'm at it and I'm going a bigger exhaust and new ecu also...
  • Like 2
Ohh.  That should be fun.  You just bought it?  It's probably an HTZ3076...



Yeah man just purchased it! Got it from a workshop in the US who had a customer come in and order two of them, put a deposit down and never returned..... It's been sitting in his shop in a display case for nearly two years hahah! I got it for relatively cheap considering what they went for when FP still sold them...

Is there anyway to tell if it's hta or htz?
  • 5 months later...
On 21 November 2016 at 10:49 PM, vkadam said:

I had a look and could not find any boost leak. Took it back to the workshop and they said that there was no boost leak and that boost drops off because it is wheel spinning on the dyno, resulting in less load. They took a pic after the dyno run. I have lost interest a bit in the car to be honest.

r34 r.jpg

 

Hey dude did you ever get to the bottom of it?

  • 4 weeks later...
On 17/05/2017 at 0:38 PM, LaurelPWR said:

 

Hey dude did you ever get to the bottom of it?

Hey

I was happy with how the car drove as it was. It was a massive improvement over the previous setup and no further changes were made. The car has since been crashed.

 

I will be trying to sell the car as is and if it does not sell, I will part it out. The car has some really nice parts on it and rebuilt gearbox with very low klms so I am sure someone can get some good use out of the parts.

2 side.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...