Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there is no n1 in the r32 range. only the r34

r32s had series of n1s from 92 onwards, the best of them is the 94 n1 with 245 wheels.

My car's CAMS logbook says its a 94 N1 but its not the real thing so I can't really help with how to tell it's real. Does it have a factory oil cooler?

r33s also had n1 models

yeah I guess Rezz could clarify that, the Nur was an r34 special model, but its not the same as an N1. The N1s were built specifically to homologate bits for racing and there is plenty of "discussion" about their exact spec....for example the Whites (2nd in Targa) this year got disqualified for running bits not on the real n1s.....

FAST is the nissan dealership software with a database of every Nissan made from 1979 on. If you can get the VIN number from the blue plate in the engine bay and post it we would be able to find out all sorts of info about the car from FAST.

Many of us here have the FAST software now since copies have been floating around lately.

FAST is the nissan dealership software with a database of every Nissan made from 1979 on. If you can get the VIN number from the blue plate in the engine bay and post it we would be able to find out all sorts of info about the car from FAST.

Many of us here have the FAST software now since copies have been floating around lately.

Where would one get a copy of this nissan FAST software?

As for the R32 gtr n1 -

They different turbos on them ( metal wheels ), they had no air conditioning, no radio/cassete player, no abs. I think the headlights were different aswell.

They have an oil cooler as standard. Air guide equipment for brakes. They had a didfferent water and oil pump.

To find out if the block is really a genuine N1 block there should be 24U on the left hand side of the block, somewhere close to the left hand side engine mount.

This page is about the letters on the plate in the engine bay.

Plate Breakdown

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...