Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a Vipec V44 plug-in on my Stagea 260RS since 2008. I recently changed my timing belt and set the CAS back to roughly the same position. The car has been driving fine. The other day I checked the timing and discovered it was 10 degrees over advanced, so I retarded it by 10 degrees after double-checking with a different timing light. Now the car drives worse than before. It hesitates coming on boost and makes much less power. I removed the top timing belt cover and confirmed the cam pulleys were correctly lined up with TDC. I also confirmed the cam half-moon shaped key for the CAS is still in position and hasn't broken off. So I'm at a bit of a loss as to where this 10 degrees of offset may have come from. Does anyone have any ideas?

Oh yeah, in setting the timing, I upgraded my firmware. I think I was about 4 or 5 versions behind the current release. Would this have caused any issues? In the base timing adjustment screen, the original offset (for 10 degree ref) was -82, as set by the Vipec tuner. Now it is -96 for the timing to be right. Do either of these numbers sound about right for an RB26?

One other thing, I did change the timing belt somewhere around 2008-2009 after the Vipec install and tune. I went back to the workshop and they checked the timing and adjusted the offset from -80 to -82. I was wondering in my head if the timing belt was always off by 1 tooth, but the fact I've changed the belt once already and it made minimal difference to timing, makes me think the possibilities are very slim.

Any ideas? I'm at a bit of a loss.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464164-rb26-base-timing-woes/
Share on other sites

My thoughts are there was possibly a timing correction built into the tune that may have been lost when the firmware was updated?

Isn't the timing offset just for the ECU to know where TDC is, not actually for setting the timing? I'm pretty sure that's the case with Haltechs but could be wrong. Worth investigating though.

Have you tried adjusting timing via the CAS as opposed to through the ECU?

Thanks for your reply mate. I actually took a save of the ECU tune after it was initially dyno'd in 2008. You can see the timing offset factor was -80 back then. I think the tuner changed it to -82 when I visited him in 2008/9 after I changed the timing belt the first time and he set the timing. On the weekend I initially adjusted timing by rotating the CAS. It ended up nearly at the limits of its adjustment, when it was centralised before the timing belt job. That's what raised the alarm to me. I think I had done the firmware update just before checking the timing.

Solved it! The old timing loop problems strike again. I found a bit of ignition lead and connected it between the coil and spark plug, then set the timing off that. Believe it or not, it was 9 degrees off! Previously I had tested the timing loop on the little timing wire loop at the back of the engine, as well as on the low voltage wires on the back of the coil. Both of these gave identical readings. Nissan must have some fancy timing light or something. I'm pretty sure the Vipec mechanic used the low voltage wires on the back of the coil, but maybe he had a better timing light than mine.

The car is doing damn well now. Very happy. Thanks for your help guys.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...