Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently joint this forums.

I am having issues with my R34 GTR oil catch can filled up so quickly and poring out in engine bay.

first of all it is a highly build 900whp rb26 so i launched the car from 0 and leaked oil and all over went straight to the front tire.. end up with small accident rim, control arm & bumper.

so i had a this custom catch can build for me and it failed. So both valve covers has -12 lines to catch can about 1 quart with side filter.

any recommendations..

Sounds like you have a major problem. How long ago was it built? Has it always spewed oil? Patrick may be right - it could be an engine out job but have a read of the last half or so of this thread:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

Thanks for the quick responds.

few months ago, was fully build. i have driven this car much its more like a show car, how ever, i drove car on road to and on the dyno breaking in the motor and after that tune it for 4 hours on dyno @ 9500 rpm did massive power and 0 oil in catch can.....

i drove the car around is great healthy nice power and i did first launch on car to see how it s from dead stop at 7000 rpm and drove it few miles and another launch. and started slide and hit rim at curve.

and thats when i discovered oil every where from catch can.

it is high compression build and is good no problem very healthy.

was thinking maybe i need to upgrade the valve cover to mines foam setup. and biger can...????

i'll get some photos to share

What restrictors, it just seems like something has happened after your launches, at the power levels you are talking about it won't take much for bad things to happen.

Hell, at 900 HP I recon if you get more than a couple of thousand k before a rebuild you are doing well.

And one big lean run and games over.

That can looks like it was designed to spew oil, how much baffling is in there.

Have a good read of the link that Bob posted.

BTW lots of nice shiny stuff, get that thing sorted.

well patrick so i do have the stock restrictors and valve cover factory baffle.

i did install -10 head oil drain on back of head. and i was pissed off that inside of the catch can there no baffle foam or anything.

IMG 0641

well patrick so i do have the stock restrictors and valve cover factory baffle.

i did install -10 head oil drain on back of head. and i was pissed off that inside of the catch can there no baffle foam or anything.

"Head drain" is a waste of space. Read the oil control thread - strangely enough the answers are all in there. BTW what oil pump do you have?

But I thought the head oil drain is very important sense it get flooded with oil in the head .

And I have nitto pump

But it's not a drain. It's a shame you are running stock restrictors

Let's say it takes you three hours to read the oil control thread. Pay yourself $33 an hour that's $100. Say your pump empties the sump and you run the bearings or put a rod through the side - what's that going to cost you? Do the research, come up with a plan and people will let you know if its the right one if you're still not sure.

after reading for hours, well first of all thank you guys.

I did come to understand this oil issue.

I was looking at my block when did the job, it did have one restrictor on the front (2001 rb26 v spec ii)

so i don't have to worry about the rear.

I also do have NITTO oil pump and i do street race, and some track.

IMG 0082

so guys i don't know in Australia but in USA, they don't care about legal stuff like catch can need to be routed to the turbo, pcv deal. i don't think its healthy.
so i can with my plan and guys feel free to correct me
1) pull the head out,
2) port the head oil drainage to gasket size
3) Buy oil restrictors 1mm to be installed in front (heavy foot street race high rpm and some track ) tomei brand
4) Drill/port the block oil drainage lines with 10mm drill bit ( can the waste be flashed with the oil few times?) or
is it a must to pull that sucker out?
5)buy fuel cell foam and build a better baffle in the valve cover.
6)and build new catch can with baffle in side. 2x -12 and tom mounted filter
7) external head oil drain already installed. -10 to lower block.
8) use 10w60 fully synthetic oil
do i need to do anything inside my stock oil pan it is currently stock. with diff.

First I would get a compression and leak down test done.

Then if all is well I would go the restrictor.

See how it goes and maybe get a well engineered can if needed.(Sorry but I really don't like the engineering, or lack of, of your current catch can)

But that's me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...