Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently joint this forums.

I am having issues with my R34 GTR oil catch can filled up so quickly and poring out in engine bay.

first of all it is a highly build 900whp rb26 so i launched the car from 0 and leaked oil and all over went straight to the front tire.. end up with small accident rim, control arm & bumper.

so i had a this custom catch can build for me and it failed. So both valve covers has -12 lines to catch can about 1 quart with side filter.

any recommendations..

Sounds like you have a major problem. How long ago was it built? Has it always spewed oil? Patrick may be right - it could be an engine out job but have a read of the last half or so of this thread:

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

Thanks for the quick responds.

few months ago, was fully build. i have driven this car much its more like a show car, how ever, i drove car on road to and on the dyno breaking in the motor and after that tune it for 4 hours on dyno @ 9500 rpm did massive power and 0 oil in catch can.....

i drove the car around is great healthy nice power and i did first launch on car to see how it s from dead stop at 7000 rpm and drove it few miles and another launch. and started slide and hit rim at curve.

and thats when i discovered oil every where from catch can.

it is high compression build and is good no problem very healthy.

was thinking maybe i need to upgrade the valve cover to mines foam setup. and biger can...????

i'll get some photos to share

What restrictors, it just seems like something has happened after your launches, at the power levels you are talking about it won't take much for bad things to happen.

Hell, at 900 HP I recon if you get more than a couple of thousand k before a rebuild you are doing well.

And one big lean run and games over.

That can looks like it was designed to spew oil, how much baffling is in there.

Have a good read of the link that Bob posted.

BTW lots of nice shiny stuff, get that thing sorted.

well patrick so i do have the stock restrictors and valve cover factory baffle.

i did install -10 head oil drain on back of head. and i was pissed off that inside of the catch can there no baffle foam or anything.

IMG 0641

well patrick so i do have the stock restrictors and valve cover factory baffle.

i did install -10 head oil drain on back of head. and i was pissed off that inside of the catch can there no baffle foam or anything.

"Head drain" is a waste of space. Read the oil control thread - strangely enough the answers are all in there. BTW what oil pump do you have?

But I thought the head oil drain is very important sense it get flooded with oil in the head .

And I have nitto pump

But it's not a drain. It's a shame you are running stock restrictors

Let's say it takes you three hours to read the oil control thread. Pay yourself $33 an hour that's $100. Say your pump empties the sump and you run the bearings or put a rod through the side - what's that going to cost you? Do the research, come up with a plan and people will let you know if its the right one if you're still not sure.

after reading for hours, well first of all thank you guys.

I did come to understand this oil issue.

I was looking at my block when did the job, it did have one restrictor on the front (2001 rb26 v spec ii)

so i don't have to worry about the rear.

I also do have NITTO oil pump and i do street race, and some track.

IMG 0082

so guys i don't know in Australia but in USA, they don't care about legal stuff like catch can need to be routed to the turbo, pcv deal. i don't think its healthy.
so i can with my plan and guys feel free to correct me
1) pull the head out,
2) port the head oil drainage to gasket size
3) Buy oil restrictors 1mm to be installed in front (heavy foot street race high rpm and some track ) tomei brand
4) Drill/port the block oil drainage lines with 10mm drill bit ( can the waste be flashed with the oil few times?) or
is it a must to pull that sucker out?
5)buy fuel cell foam and build a better baffle in the valve cover.
6)and build new catch can with baffle in side. 2x -12 and tom mounted filter
7) external head oil drain already installed. -10 to lower block.
8) use 10w60 fully synthetic oil
do i need to do anything inside my stock oil pan it is currently stock. with diff.

First I would get a compression and leak down test done.

Then if all is well I would go the restrictor.

See how it goes and maybe get a well engineered can if needed.(Sorry but I really don't like the engineering, or lack of, of your current catch can)

But that's me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...