Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt No Tcs

skylne_gts-182
 Share

Recommended Posts

skylne_gts-182 Contributor

skylne_gts-182

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I've just bought myself a 98 R34 GTT. Not I found a few little problems with the car but nothing major. The one thing that's got me is the TCS system doesn't seem to work at all???

I've checked the boot for and mods to the ECU , checked the plug and it's plugged in. I'm just lost at what next. The car breaks traction all the time and I have no slip light at all on the dash board. Not even with ign on

All the plugs are plugged up to the butterfly near the TB.

Please any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464566-r34-gtt-no-tcs/
Share on other sites
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

The traction control system sucks hard, and just slams the throttle shut. Disabling it is a smart thing to do.

Making it work again is a waste of time.

Get better tyres, drive better.

How much power is it making?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464566-r34-gtt-no-tcs/#findComment-7720929
Share on other sites
V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I've just bought myself a 98 R34 GTT. Not I found a few little problems with the car but nothing major. The one thing that's got me is the TCS system doesn't seem to work at all???

I've checked the boot for and mods to the ECU , checked the plug and it's plugged in. I'm just lost at what next. The car breaks traction all the time and I have no slip light at all on the dash board. Not even with ign on

All the plugs are plugged up to the butterfly near the TB.

Please any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Please check your ECU fault codes and report back. Instructions here, scroll down for a pic of which pins to short: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/

I'm currently getting Code 17: ABS-TCS C/U Signal. My TCS never worked since the manual conversion but the ABS is fine.

TCS and SLIP lights are on in the dash too, along with A/T and HICAS because they no longer exist...

Should also state that all it really does is put a 2nd throttle to 60% max throttle. I was able to break traction pretty easily with stock power with the traction control on

Fresh avatar Greg? And yes you're right it's not the most sophisticated system is it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464566-r34-gtt-no-tcs/#findComment-7721294
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No. Fault codes are read from the dash light. I don't know what light they use in a 34 - it could be a dedicated CEL. I have my Neo in an R32 so I have the cat light as the CEL.

The best way to read the codes is to use a Consult scanner plugged into the Consult port. More to the point.....the best way to read codes on any of the control units in the car is through the Consult port. If you have a buggered sensor (say the steering angle sensor) then you cannot execute the routine required to put the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode. So you can't find out that you've got a buggered sensor. See the fault in Nissan's logic with the silly dances you have to do to enter diag modes? Scanners cut right through that crap.

Resetting the ECU is a simple case of leaving it without power for a while.

A lot of people actually remove dashbulbs to mask hardware faults that bring up the lights. ABS/TCS, being as optional as they are, would be the biggest candidates.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464566-r34-gtt-no-tcs/#findComment-7721756
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...