Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Firstly just let me say I can use the search function because I'm at work and the proxy won't let me view the page.

I have just bought an R32 GTS-T Type M, done about 83,000k

It nearly stock, only mod is the 3" exahust. Which is good to a point so I know it hasn't been misteaded.

I have read a few articles that say the stock ceramic turbo can push 14 PSI safely without affecting the daily driving of the car.

So just to be on the safe side I want to run 12 PSI, I am of the understanding that this can be done by either a ECB or Bleed Valve, and that EBC's are better but you do pay for the privilege, correct?

Also with putting the boost up I would need a after market boost guage so I can monitor the cars boost level.

Will I need a FMIC to run this setup at 12 PSI or will the stock intercooler be ok?

Will it increase full consumption for general driving?

Also what is a dump pipe?

I know that you can also get After Market ECU's, Bigger fuel pumps, injectors and the list goes on, are these going to be required to have the car running smoothly if I alter the standard boost setting, or are they only if you are going after heaps of power?

Adza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/
Share on other sites

Hello,

Firstly just let me say I can use the search function because I'm at work and the proxy won't let me view the page.

I have just bought an R32 GTS-T Type M, done about 83,000k

It nearly stock, only mod is the 3" exahust.  Which is good to a point so I know it hasn't been misteaded.

I have read a few articles that say the stock ceramic turbo can push 14 PSI safely without affecting the daily driving of the car.

So just to be on the safe side I want to run 12 PSI, I am of the understanding that this can be done by either a ECB or Bleed Valve, and that EBC's are better but you do pay for the privilege, correct?

Also with putting the boost up I would need a after market boost guage so I can monitor the cars boost level.

Will I need a FMIC to run this setup at 12 PSI or will the stock intercooler be ok?

Will it increase full consumption for general driving?

Also what is a dump pipe?

I know that you can also get After Market ECU's, Bigger fuel pumps, injectors and the list goes on, are these going to be required to have the car running smoothly if I alter the standard boost setting, or are they only if you are going after heaps of power?

Adza

EBC's are more expensive but ar also better at controlling boost, bring boost on quicker and have a much greater functionality. However they are more expensive (5+ times more expensive).

It all depends where you want to go with the car in the future and if you are looking at keeping the car and doing further modifications.

You will be able to up the boost to 12psi from the standard 10psi without a FMIC although the car might pop and fart a bit. Fuel consumption in your case would be equivalent to power so with the slight power increase at full power you will use more fuel but when driving normally consumption will be the same.

A dump pipe is the section of the exaust from the turbo to the front pipe, it exits the turbo and travels around 250mm where there is a flange connecting it to the front pipe which leads to the CAT.

You will not need any other parts (ecu, etc) to run higher boost. However a FMIC would be beneficial.

an R32 with 3" exaust should make around 125rwkw on stock boost, if you invest in a FMIC and bleed valve running 13psi you should be able to get 140-150rwkw. That would be my plan of attack if I was you.

For FMIC you cant beat the HYBRID kits for around $1100 and you should be able to get a bleed valve fairly cheaply ($100).

Hope that helps,

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-943484
Share on other sites

i agree with evan. everything is relative to each other on these cars, so you change one thing and then you need to change another and before you know it you've spent too much! If you can afford an intercooler of 600x300 size go for it, and a "cheap" boost controller will suffice. Hopefully you have taken care of the intake side of things, so you're all set. As for a boost guage they are a good idea to watch the motor's progress and lets you know if there's a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-943503
Share on other sites

Cheers Evan,

Thanks for the really good advised.

ok well I don't mind spending the money on the EBC, seems a bit safe and more reliable from other posts I've read as well, also the digital readout look nice :(.

Do the boost guage brand make any difference in reliability or accuracy of them? any good ones to get?

ok i'll get the FMIC before boosting, just so the car runs smoother, don't really want it popping as such.........

Any ideas/websites where you can buy the kits for R32 with piping and intercooler??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-943569
Share on other sites

I ran 12psi with my stock cooler for ages without an issue. A front mount isn't necessary but you do notice the lack of response in warmer tempretures.

for boost gauges and gauges in general I'd be sticking with the Jap brand gauges (Blitz, Apexi, HKS, GReddy etc...) reason being is the quality. I believe meggala had a speco meter boost gauge which was telling him that he was running less than 1 bar unfortunately the gauge was wrong and he was running about 1.4bar and it blew his turbo. I think that's what happened if memory serves me correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-943598
Share on other sites

there is some guy on this site who can help you out with a fmic... I forget his username tho.. thats if he is still selling them.. i bought the hybrid kit for 1100+deivery..

i think its BATMBL who can help you out with a dump/front pipe and hiflo cat too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-944398
Share on other sites

there is some guy on this site who can help you out with a fmic... I forget his username tho.. thats if he is still selling them.. i bought the hybrid kit for 1100+deivery..  

i think its BATMBL who can help you out with a dump/front pipe and hiflo cat too.

So this is a hybrid kit for a GTS-T 32? Includes piping etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-944435
Share on other sites

Also I have an E-boost and it controls boost perfectly and I love the thing, I took my boost guage out because I stopped looking at it once I got the e-boost as it has a big digital readout. If you would like to save some money I would suggest it.

check www.turbosmart.com.au to see what it looks like and if it is your style, remember Japanese name brands are not always the best and supporting local companies will help our economy (although i am unsure if turbosmart is aussie) however in some instances jap brands are the go, the experience on this forum is great and people will help you choose components.

My recommendation is the e-boost just because instead of ie. AVCR ($550-$700) jap boost guage ($150+) you get the e-boost for RRP $750 but search around I got mine for $480 and it hadf only been used a few times and was perfect! (thanks slyr33 :P

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46467-r32-mods/#findComment-944573
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...