Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'v searched both on this forum and on the internet generally and not found a definitive answer to my set of questions.

There is a lot of discussion out there about the TE37 wheels on teh AWD Sytageas but not much at all about them on a RWD Stagea.

My car is a Series 2 C34 Stagea RWD Auto. I want to fit Volk TE37 wheels but they must have the nice concaved look.

If I go for 17s or 18s, what width and offset of wheel could I use ?

Will that offset on a TE37 have that nice concave spoke look ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464680-volk-te37-on-rwd-what-size/
Share on other sites

If installed in the right offset, the TE37 spokes bend inwards going from the outside towards the middle. Thus giving the concave appearance which looks nice... see photos attached

That really depends on the thickness of the hub itself. I've seen quite a few wheels with the same width and offset but instead of concave spokes or a bigger dish, they have just had a bigger hub.. I can't tell you why they do this as it makes it a pain to get a full set or 2 full sets of identical wheels.

The reason why i said this, is the te37 could be one of the brands?

If installed in the right offset, the TE37 spokes bend inwards going from the outside towards the middle. Thus giving the concave appearance which looks nice... see photos attached

tumblr_nu3lx5dAsW1tyh5hxo1_500.jpg

staggea1.jpg?w=1000&h=666

The top car at least is a 260RS and will be AWD

Hey Bob what were your track wheels? i remember them being 3 piece and multispoke. Can you post a picture? I really liked them.

Bought them second hand off a drifter - can't remember the brand sorry...

post-49463-0-16846300-1462684672_thumb.jpg

Here ya go - 5 minutes on Google and here's what you are after - they are called TE37 Ultra Evolution Track edition (with what they call "inverted" spokes) - nothing to do with offset - they are available in a range of sizes and offsets. I suspect they will cost an arm and a leg each:

https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=TE37ULTRA-TE

If installed in the right offset, the TE37 spokes bend inwards going from the outside towards the middle. Thus giving the concave appearance which looks nice... see photos attached

If you had bothered to click on the Link to Rays Engineering that I gave you you will see that this statement is incorrect (as is your statement that you know the model of wheel you are after). It is the particular model of TE37: "Ultra Evolution Track Edition" that gives them the inverted spoke look that you are after - nothing to do with offset - as i have already told you they are available in a full range of offsets ALL of which feature the "reinverted spokes".

17 or 18 x 8in or 9in will fit. For offset I have no idea for your car - for mine it requires different offsets front and rear.

According the the web site they only come in a 20" rim size for the ultra track edition and 19" and 20" for the Ultra

Yes quite right. Which confirms my theory that the wheels on the 260Rs cars above are Varrstoen copies (not forged but cast) which do come in 17 18 and 19 inch. Others making similar knock-offs include Koya and Rota.

If you had bothered to click on the Link to Rays Engineering that I gave you you will see that this statement is incorrect (as is your statement that you know the model of wheel you are after). It is the particular model of TE37: "Ultra Evolution Track Edition" that gives them the inverted spoke look that you are after - nothing to do with offset -

I did bother to look at the link.

Reading through it and finding that, the "track edition" is not available in rim size 18" confirmed to me that it is not the only edition that can give the inverted spoke look.

The photos below are of a car which has Volk TE37 in 18" ... not replica. These photos show the wheels to have that inverted spoke appearance which I am after.

HJA046.001.JPGHJA046.011.JPG

Edited by ceejay

I found a couple of the TE37SL variants have that look.

That is right Sir. That is exactly what I am saying too. There are several of the TE37 versions that have the inverted spoke appearance.

The spokes look more and more concave as the outer edge of the rim moves further and further towards the outside of the car, compared to the position of the hub. negative offset or the smallest positive offset.

What I want to know is, say for 17" and 18" wheels, (never mind what brand or style) what is the width and maximum offset usable, which will bring the edge of the wheel closer to the outside of the vehicle but still not cause fouling with the wheel arches.

ATV-Wheel-Offset-Explaination.jpg

Edited by ceejay

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...