Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I obviously gave up on the MINE'S ECU & have started down the Haltech route.

Here is a link to the start of the install & pics of the parts I chose from reading this forum & from member suggestions...

Including

RACEWORKS 725cc injectors

Haltech Platinum Pro plug and play

Boost solenoid

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Adjustable cam gears OS GIKEN

Tomei PonCam ProCam upgraded cam shafts

in 260 9.15

out 260 9.15

Rocker cover gasket kit

Autech catch can

Air intake mod

100k service kit including Timing belt

Water pump

ITS DYNO TIME...

So will be about this weeks progress & the outcome.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465091-stagea-260rs-autech-haltech-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Well all done & I'm more than happy from 164KW to 297KW atw

On Dyno

DYNO graph

And as a bonus it has a great lumpy idle with the new cams

Idle

During the process Jezz found not one but three exhaust restrictors one before the CAT & both mufflers

Restrictors

Cant wait to pick her up...

  • Like 2

Does anyone know if Yu can get badges made? I would like a badge to go on the front grill on the space left for the Autech Version badge as it's the only spot that looks like something is missing. Any thought or suggestions?

  • 2 weeks later...

Well been driving the car for 2 weeks now & it is a different beast, it is pure driving pleasure the power the sound it's fantastic.

I can't recommend DVS TUNING in Somersby enough, Jezz knows the RB's inside out and is a whiz on Haltech ecu's

He stuck to the quote & it was done on time. I'll be back when it's time to build a second monter motor to drop in the Stagea.

I've done a few more small mod & tidy up jobs since the tune...

Replaced the soft rubber seal around the air intake that seals against the bonnet.

Removed tidied up & spay painted the acoustic dampener under the bonnet with matt black calliper paint.

Added a huge deep cycle second battery in the back with a 800watt inverter with a RedArc smart controller system for charging camera, gimble, & drone batteries between jobs.

And I'm in the process of ordering Project Mu NS4000 brake pares front & rear as the one that the car came with must be track pads. I can't even get the abs to trigger no matter what when the are at normal temp & they have left hot spot deposits on the Nismo rotors I'll have to get skimmed off.

Well all done & I'm more than happy from 164KW to 297KW atw

And as a bonus it has a great lumpy idle with the new cams

During the process Jezz found not one but three exhaust restrictors one before the CAT & both mufflers

Cant wait to pick her up...

Jezz worked out that with every exhaust restrictor he removed I gained about 25KW so all up about 75KW AWESOME!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
On 31/07/2016 at 7:23 PM, flavzz said:

Great result mate, very clean looking 260. Any plans to take it to the track/strip?

Not at the moment it is just too pristine of a specimen to bash around its like driving a brand new car.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Project Mu pads fitted & make a huge difference & no dust much better braking but still needs attention maybe the rotors skimmed & the system bleed with fresh dot5 fluid. I also found a genuine instrument cluster from Montreal Canada that has turned up so my tachometer reads correctly. I'll be fitting that this week with a fresh set of super white led globes. Awesome find, now I won't have the blacked out auto trans lights.



I found a genuine front grille Autech Version badge. Looks great but expensive but it was a blank area that looked like it needed a badge. I also added some cheap nismo badges front and rear as sacrificial offerings to keep the idiots away from the genuine ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...