Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I obviously gave up on the MINE'S ECU & have started down the Haltech route.

Here is a link to the start of the install & pics of the parts I chose from reading this forum & from member suggestions...

Including

RACEWORKS 725cc injectors

Haltech Platinum Pro plug and play

Boost solenoid

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Adjustable cam gears OS GIKEN

Tomei PonCam ProCam upgraded cam shafts

in 260 9.15

out 260 9.15

Rocker cover gasket kit

Autech catch can

Air intake mod

100k service kit including Timing belt

Water pump

ITS DYNO TIME...

So will be about this weeks progress & the outcome.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465091-stagea-260rs-autech-haltech-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Well all done & I'm more than happy from 164KW to 297KW atw

On Dyno

DYNO graph

And as a bonus it has a great lumpy idle with the new cams

Idle

During the process Jezz found not one but three exhaust restrictors one before the CAT & both mufflers

Restrictors

Cant wait to pick her up...

  • Like 2

Does anyone know if Yu can get badges made? I would like a badge to go on the front grill on the space left for the Autech Version badge as it's the only spot that looks like something is missing. Any thought or suggestions?

  • 2 weeks later...

Well been driving the car for 2 weeks now & it is a different beast, it is pure driving pleasure the power the sound it's fantastic.

I can't recommend DVS TUNING in Somersby enough, Jezz knows the RB's inside out and is a whiz on Haltech ecu's

He stuck to the quote & it was done on time. I'll be back when it's time to build a second monter motor to drop in the Stagea.

I've done a few more small mod & tidy up jobs since the tune...

Replaced the soft rubber seal around the air intake that seals against the bonnet.

Removed tidied up & spay painted the acoustic dampener under the bonnet with matt black calliper paint.

Added a huge deep cycle second battery in the back with a 800watt inverter with a RedArc smart controller system for charging camera, gimble, & drone batteries between jobs.

And I'm in the process of ordering Project Mu NS4000 brake pares front & rear as the one that the car came with must be track pads. I can't even get the abs to trigger no matter what when the are at normal temp & they have left hot spot deposits on the Nismo rotors I'll have to get skimmed off.

Well all done & I'm more than happy from 164KW to 297KW atw

And as a bonus it has a great lumpy idle with the new cams

During the process Jezz found not one but three exhaust restrictors one before the CAT & both mufflers

Cant wait to pick her up...

Jezz worked out that with every exhaust restrictor he removed I gained about 25KW so all up about 75KW AWESOME!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
On 31/07/2016 at 7:23 PM, flavzz said:

Great result mate, very clean looking 260. Any plans to take it to the track/strip?

Not at the moment it is just too pristine of a specimen to bash around its like driving a brand new car.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Project Mu pads fitted & make a huge difference & no dust much better braking but still needs attention maybe the rotors skimmed & the system bleed with fresh dot5 fluid. I also found a genuine instrument cluster from Montreal Canada that has turned up so my tachometer reads correctly. I'll be fitting that this week with a fresh set of super white led globes. Awesome find, now I won't have the blacked out auto trans lights.



I found a genuine front grille Autech Version badge. Looks great but expensive but it was a blank area that looked like it needed a badge. I also added some cheap nismo badges front and rear as sacrificial offerings to keep the idiots away from the genuine ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...